• Shade to Part Sun
• Plant size, form, bloom color, and bloom style are all variety specific
• Summer blooming (in general)
• Low maintenance

Landscape features include large blooms in a variety of colors and some species offer fall and winter interest.

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Ah, the hydrangea!  While most shade gardens can boast of at least one plant, if not more; confusion still reigns.  Questions about color, changing of bloom color, soil acidity, sun requirements and when to prune are very common and answers can be a little murky because of the sheer quantity of hydrangeas on the market and the differences between them.  Hydrangeas are starting to bloom so we thought it was a great time to have a little chat about them!  Current Inventory

Let’s start with the most basic of basics, the different ‘kinds’ of hydrangeas.  Botanical names all start with the genus name, then the the species name, then if available, a variety or cultivated variety (a.k.a. cultivar) name.  All hydrangeas have the same genus name of ‘Hydrangea’, and there are four main species of shrub hydrangea that have been popularized and developed for our landscapes:

Hydrangea macrophylla

These are the traditional mophead and lacecap varieties and are also known as big-leaf hydrangeas .  Mopheads have globe shaped clusters of blooms consisting of large male flowers and lacecaps have flattened bloom heads with small female flowers surrounded by larger male flowers.  The macrophylla species blooms on old wood (last years’ growth).  The only pruning necessary is removing dead stems after the hydrangea pushes out new growth in the spring. Wait as long as you can since new growth at branch ends can be the last to emerge.  Additional pruning can be done before August if re-shaping or size control is needed.  Pruning in August or later could result in the removal of the following years’ blooms.  Deadheading, or removing spent blooms, can be done at any time of the year; just cut right below the spent bloom.

Re-blooming hydrangeas, such as the very popular ‘Endless Summer’ series do not require pruning either.  They bloom on both current seasons’ growth and past seasons’ growth, which means any pruning at all could reduce blooming during both the current season and for next years’ bloom season.  For these, it’s best to just deadhead. If you need to prune for shaping reasons, prune as described in the previous email.

If cutting blooms for cut flowers, you can cut a long stem in June or July but cutting a long stem in August or after could result in reduced blooming the next summer.  These pruning tips apply to quercifolia (Oakleaf varieties) also.  Most macrophyllas have either pink or blue blooms although there are a few white ones.

Changing Bloom Color

Big- leaf hydrangeas are unique in that the bloom color can be changed by altering the acidity of the soil.  Blue Hydrangeas like a pH range of 4.0 to 5.0 while pink blooming hydrangeas need a 6.0 to 7.0 range to stay pink.  White blooms will stay white; no amount of working with the soil composition will change that, however, the blooms of some cultivars turn pink as they age.  Pink blooms can be changed to blue by adding aluminum to the soil and lowering pH, most commonly by adding Aluminum Sulfate (don’t over do it; plants can be killed by applying too much aluminum sulfate) or organic matter.

Since soils already have an undetermined amount of aluminum in them, bloom color can change after planting or transplanting.  Changing blue hydrangeas to pink is a little more difficult because the hydrangea has to stop absorbing aluminum.  Hydrangeas take up aluminum better as low pH levels so adding lime to raise the the soil pH can help some.  Adjusting the pH of soils in containers is easier so if you can’t make something work in the ground, consider planting it in a large container.  Remember that water has a pH too and can affect bloom color, as can foundations and walkways.

Common cultivars include: ‘Endless Summer’ series (re-bloomers), ‘Big Daddy’, ‘Blushing Bride’,  ‘Glowing Embers’, ‘Nikko Blue’, ‘Nantucket Blue’, ‘Let’s Dance’ series, ‘Lemon Daddy’

‘Endless Summer’ hydrangeas are one of the most popular shade loving plants on the market, so lets spend a little more time one this one.  ‘Endless Summer’ hydrangeas differ from many macrophylla hydrangeas in that they bloom on both new and old wood; that is, branches that grew last year as well as the new branches from the present year.  Bud and blooms will continue to set throughout the season and deadheading spent blooms will encourage more flowering.

Hydrangea arborescens

These are known as the smooth-leaf hydrangea and have big round bloom heads.  The most common arborescens cultivar is ‘Annabelle’ but more are arriving on the scene all the time.  This type of hydrangea blooms on new wood so it can be pruned during the winter with no reduction of blooms for the following season; however, do not prune in the late spring or early summer as they are preparing to bloom.  Most of these have cream colored blooms but there is a new pink cultivar called ‘Invincibelle Spirit’.

Common cultivars include: ‘Annabelle’, ‘Incrediball’, Invincibelle Spirit (pink variety)

Hydrangea quercifolia

These have very different leaves than all the other hydrangeas; they are shaped like oak leafs…hence the name.  Oakleaf varieties can withstand drier soil than other cultivars but it cannot stand wet feet and will develop root rot fast in poorly drained soils.  The long, cream colored, cone-shaped blooms can be single or double depending on cultivar and turn a pink color as they age.  They also provide fall interest in the garden with leaves that turn red, yellow, orange and purple, and winter interest by displaying exfoliating bark.  Pruning of the Oakleaf hydrangeas is the same as for the macrophylla and is mentioned above.  These can take a little more sun than the macrophylla and arborescens species.

Common cultivars include: ‘Snowflake’ (double), ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Alice’, ‘Sikes Dwarf’, ‘PeeWee’, ‘Ruby Slippers’

Hydrangea paniculata

Paniculatas blooms are in a panical shape. The growth habit of paniculatas is also much more upright than some other species.  Paniculatas are the only hydrangeas that can be pruned into a tree.  Cream colored blooms fade into a pink color later in the season.  These can be pruned the same as arborescens since they bloom on new wood.  Remember not to prune in the summer as they are preparing to bloom.

Paniculatas can take more sun and in cooler climates are even considered a full sun plant.  In our area, they can be in full sun if they are in rich, well-drained soil and get enough moisture.  However, they may experience some leaf burn.  Ideally, they would have all morning sun and some afternoon shade.

Here is a link to a more detailed blog post on growing paniculata species hydrangeas in Arkansas.

Common cultivars include: ‘Limelight’, ‘Little Lime’, ‘PeeGee’, ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, ‘QuickFire’, ‘BoBo’, ‘Pinky Winky’

Hydrangea anomala petiolaris

Last but not least, there are Climbing Hydrangeas.  This vining plant has aerial roots that can attach to materials on its own so no trellis is necessary.  The blooms are a cream color and are lacecap in form.

Fertilizing and Mulching Your Hydrangeas

Encourage flowering by fertilizing with a low nitrogen, high phosphorus fertilizer (number above 30).  Stop all fertilizer applications by August 15th; this will help acclimate the plant for winter.

Adding a four inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant will help protect it from winter damage.  This isn’t as necessary here in Central Arkansas as in more northern climates.  If you choose to mulch the plant, do so around November 30, and then remove in late winter.  Once growth emerges in the spring, prune back old branches, about an inch above where new growth is present.

Where to Plant

Here in Arkansas, all hydrangeas are going to do best with some afternoon shade, although as mentioned above, the paniculatas and quercifolias can take more sun.  With the exception of quercifolia, all of the hydrangeas prefer to have rich, well drained, moist soil and part-sun.  As mentioned above, the quercifolias do not like “wet feet” and do fine in drier soil.

What is part-sun anyway?  Hydrangeas and other plants that like part-sun do best planted in areas that get morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled sun all day long.

So which one is right for your landscape?  When picking out plants, take into account the mature size of the plant, bloom color, leaf texture, and sun and soil requirements.  Choose the plant that works best for the site and enjoy a healthy plant.  It’s much easier than choosing the plant that you like the best and watching it struggle in the chosen site.  Current Inventory

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What is a paniculata hydrangea?

This post is really about growing tips for all panicle (Hydrangea paniculata) hydrangeas but we thought this title would catch your attention since Limelight is the most popular one right now! These hydrangeas have blooms in panicles, which means a branched indeterminate inflorescence, which forms a cone shaped flower head. The blooms are usually quite large, up to 15 inches in length, depending on variety.

When you think of hydrangeas, you might think of the traditional bigleaf hydrangea, the macrophylla species, which features large round inflorescence of blue, pink or white flowers. The paniculata species of hydrangea features bright lime or cream color blooms. The bloom color is not altered by soil pH, as in the macrophylla.  Panicle hydrangeas blooms often fade to pink or even red, depending on variety. Another difference between the two species is the leaf shape; panicle hydrangeas have a smaller, more narrow leaf than macrophylla. For details on the different species of hydrangea, visit our All About Hydrangeas blog post.

We suggest planting hydrangea paniculata varieties in morning sun, with some protection from the sun during the heat of the day (more on this below). Hydrangeas like regular water and rich, well drained soil.  If you aren’t sure how well your soil drains, check out this post for details on how to perform a drainage test.

Can they really take full Arkansas sun?

The biggest difference between all other hydrangeas and the paniculata species is sun tolerance.  This specific species has identified as one that can take full sun. A hydrangea that can take full sun… what?!  Is that even possible?! For Arkansas gardens, the answer is no and yes.

No, not when planted in heavy clay soil that holds water, with no amendments, in a hot space, such as against a wall, with sporadic water. We have a team member that has had outstanding success with his panicle hydrangea in full sun; this isn’t the experience of most of our customers.  Here is why; when the plant stresses in full sun during mid-day hours June through mid-September, the stress symptom is a wilted appearance.  When the plant is shaded again, the leaves perk up.  However, in the meantime, most people panic and water it… usually too much and too often, especially if the soil doesn’t drain well.  This then causes root rot and the plant fails to thrive.

Yes, panicle hydrangeas can take full sun when planted in an ideal growing environment, in rich soil that drains well, in a space that gets proper water, no more, no less.  In areas with less intense summer sun, such as in the northern states (or even northern Arkansas), successfully growing this plant in full sun is easier.  Most plants come pre-tagged from the grower; most of them have categorized panicle hydrangeas as full sun.  At Good Earth, we place them with our part sun shrubs and have our Good Earth plant sign denote part sun in an effort to communicate where they will be most successful for the majority of landscapes in our area.

Remember our team member’s outstanding success?  He assessed then properly amended his soil and provides the right amount of water; not too much or too little. We think of this plant similar to the way we think of a Japanese maple; can they grow in full Arkansas sun? Yes, it’s possible if the planting situation is just right, however, they will fare better with some protection from the afternoon sun.

Hydrangea trees are a thing?

Yup! The growth habit of paniculatas is also much more upright than some other species.  Paniculatas are the only hydrangeas that can be pruned into a tree.   This type of hydrangea blooms on new wood so it can be pruned after it blooms in the summer, during the winter or even in very early spring before it leafs out with no reduction of blooms; however, do not prune in the late spring or early summer as they are preparing to bloom.

‘Limelight’ and ‘Quickfire’ are two of the most popular panicle hydrangea trees on the market right now.  ‘PeeGee’ used to be more popular but these newer varieties are more popular now because they have stronger stems that hold the blooms up better, although by the end of the season, the large blooms may still weigh down tree form plants. As of today (early July 2021) we have plenty of gorgeous ‘Limelight’ trees in stock, all in full, gorgeous bloom!

‘Limelight’ is a large growing variety (6- 8 feet tall and wide), and can be grown as either a tree or shrub. ‘Little Lime’ is very similar in look but grows to only 3- 6 feet in size and is grown as a shrub. We have plenty of both of these varieties in stock right now, and through the year, we have others as well. For more information about our current hydrangea selection, please visit this link.

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Warm Wet Weather

Warm, wet weather brings on fungus…and we get our share of this kind of weather, which means our landscape plants and lawns often have fungus issues.  Let’s take about landscape plants first!  So what does a fungus look like?  Usually, the symptoms of fungus are easily identifiable…round black spots, irregular brown spots or a downy, white dusting on leaves.  Some of our most beloved landscape plants are susceptible to fungus including Indian Hawthorn, Roses, Lilacs, Hydrangeas, Columbine and Dogwood trees to name a few.  While some plants are more susceptible, keep in mind that pretty much any plant could get a fungus if the conditions are conducive and the fungus spores are present. However, there are some things we can do to help avoid fungus infections.

Good Air Flow

Space plants based on mature size.  Properly spaced plants have more air flow between them, which keeps foliage drier both after a rain and after irrigation applications.  For example, KnockOut Roses can grow to at least four foot tall.  Ideally, they would be spaced about five feet apart, from center to center, at planting.  We understand the temptation to plant closer together when the new, young plants are small, but the extra maintenance involved with pruning and harder control disease outbreaks just aren’t worth it!

Proper Watering Timing

We mentioned irrigation above; the amount of water is less important than when you water, at least when trying to avoid fungus issues.  Watering early in the morning is ideal so that the foliage can dry fast as the sun and wind pick up for the day.  Conversely, watering in the evening provides the perfect circumstance for fungal growth…hours of water sitting on foliage in a dark environment.  Bottom line, water in the early morning and space your plants out properly.

Prevention and Control of Fungus in Landscape Plants

That covers all that we can control; the environment and weather have big roles too.  Obviously, in an area with warm, humid spring and fall seasons, no matter how carefully you have taken care of your plants, fungus is unavoidable. Once a plant is infected, the best solution is to treat it with a systemic fungicide such as Ferti-Lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide.  For roses, there is also a product from Bayer called All in One Rose & Flower Care that includes a fungicide as well as a fertilizer and insect control product; this works well as a preventative treatment.

Apply fungicide sprays when the foliage is completely dry and will remain dry for about 24 hours; this will allow it to be fully absorbed.  Take note of how long the products treats for; additional sprays might be necessary during prolonged wet spells and while conditions are good for fungal growth.  The systemic fungicide will be absorbed and distributed throughout the plant, protecting new leaves from being infected and kill spores present on leaves which will reduce spreading.  Non-systemic fungicides such as Bonide’s Copper Fungicide will kill active fungus spores already on leaves and is good for edibles.

Keep in mind that the treatment process can take several applications and infected leaves will most likely turn yellow and fall off.  Be sure to remove and dispose of infected leaves to help reduce spread of fungus.  Plants that are susceptible to fungus can be sprayed at a preventative rate; read labels carefully, the rate for preventative sprays is different than the curative rate.

Prevention and Control of Fungus in Lawns

Now on to the lawn!  Lawn fungus symptoms include large circular or slightly irregular, thinning, brown spots that grow in size each year.  As with landscape plants, there are some control measures we can put in place before the occurrence of fungus to help reduce the chances of infection and impact the recovery time.  Fertilize with slow release fertilizer instead of a fast release, high Nitrogen fertilizer.  Water lawns deeply, less frequently, as opposed to more frequent, shallow waterings.  This will encourage better root growth.  Provide good drainage, both on the surface and subsurface of the lawn areas.  Good drainage insures that water can quickly move out of lawn areas.  As we talked about above, clearly we aren’t in control of the rain and temperatures.  However, we can control the fertilization and water we apply, as well as address drainage.

Once symptoms of fungus are visible, treat as soon as possible with Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control or Ferti-Lome F-Stop granules or Ferti-Lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide, available as a liquid spray.  Treat the entire lawn area to help control spread.  This will need to be done while conditions for fungal growth are present and for the next few years as well.  Preventative applications on lawns before the wet, warm season are helpful.  Apply in March at preventative rates as the warm season grasses start greening up.

For plant materials that are too large to spray, keep in mind that most foliar fungus diseases on trees and shrubs will cease being active when we reach temperatures consistently above 90 degrees.  For large healthy plants, the issue will more of an aesthetic one than one that could cause plant death. The same is true for shrubs like hydrangeas; it’s more unsightly than dangerous but if let go too long for too many years, it could cause a decline of plant health.

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Fall Planting

Yup, it’s finally that magical time of year, when pumpkins reign and jeans are back in circulation! It’s a magical time for plants too; while the soil temps remain warm, roots keep growing.  This means that fall is actually a perfect time to plant trees, shrubs and groundcover.  The extra root development this season means a stronger more, more established plant next spring.  Bottom line, planting in the fall really gives the plants a jump start.  And speaking of a jump start, we have a Good Earth product by that name that gives the plant an even better root boost so be sure to use that at planting.

Cool Season Color

Let’s welcome the season of cool crisp, sunshine-filled days…by planting! Prep your color areas by removing the summer annuals, and breaking up the existing soil. Breaking up the soil adds oxygen to the soil, increases water percolation, and increases nutrient levels, all of which will help the roots of your fall plantings grow and get established quickly. Next, it’s time to do some soil amending. For perennial and annual color areas, we suggest using what we professionals use; Good Earth Brand Professional Growing Mix. Its’ mix of organic matter, perlite, pH adjusters and Actino root protection provides an optimum growing environment.

Fall annual choices include Pansies, Violas, Cabbage, Kale, Ornamental Mustard and much more. Mums are a Fall favorite; choose healthy plants with dark green foliage and plenty of buds. Don’t forget to give your planters a fall make-over too; Cool Wave pansies provide wonderful, trailing color all season! Use Good Earth Brand Jump Start to give the roots a boost and don’t forget to feed with Ferti-Lome Premium Bedding Plant Food throughout the season.

Fall Color

Bright red, yellow and orange leaves brighten any landscape! Is your landscape full of vibrant colors? Well, it can be just by adding some tried and true shrubs that have great fall color such as Burning Bush, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, Virginia Sweetspire, and Blueberries. There are also many trees that provide fall foliage color such as Maples, Zelkovas, Redbuds and Dogwoods.

What’s that purple blooming grass that has Nicole smiling so big?  One of our staff favorites, Purple Muhly Grass! Most ornamental grasses produce plumes in the fall, and give excellent texture contrast.

Ornamental grasses are a great landscaping option for this time of year. They add texture and fullness to any area! Gregg talks in more detail about these plants in the video above. Check it out!

Pumpkins

Nothing says Autumn quite like a pumpkin, so stock up! Pie pumpkins and Fairy Tale pumpkins are some of the best for baking. Pair different kinds of pumpkins and gourds to create stacks for entryways and mantle decor. Clean out a pumpkin, insert a glass vase and make an eye-catching centerpiece, or add a pot and make a little indoor succulent garden! There are so many kinds of pumpkins and gourds and each one adds its own flair to your fall decor.

And if you considering waiting to pick up your carving pumpkins, we encourage you to come by sooner than later.  Our odd weather this spring and late summer has created a bit of a pumpkin shortage, and this weeks’ order will likely be our last…

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There are many plants that capture our imagination and make us want to plant large swaths throughout our landscape. Sometimes these treasured plants look amazing but don’t fare well over time. This plant, the invincible Oakleaf Hydrangea is another story!

Oakleaf Hydrangeas have a totally different look to them than the traditional mophead or lacecap hydrangeas. The large multi-lobed leaves that resemble large oak leaves give this hydrangea it’s name.  The interesting shape of the leaves as well as the size gives this plant a striking texture in the shade landscape.  In mid-Spring, cream colored blooms emerge in large, long panicles at the tips of the long branches.  The blooms can be as much as a foot long!  As the season progresses, the blooms turn to a blush color and then to a nice light tea color, and will remain throughout the fall and winter if not pruned off.

The attributes of the Oakleaf hydrangea do not end here!  In the fall, the leaves turn red and purple and hang on until as late as December.  The exfoliating bark of the plant then takes center place in the winter landscape.

And the care is easy!  These plants prefer part-sun but do very well in shady areas, and can take more sun than the traditional hydrangeas.  The Oakleaf hydrangea also can withstand drought conditions once established.  Boggy soil will stress the plant, so make sure your area has good drainage.  If needed, prune just after blooming, by the end of July as with traditional hydrangeas.  If you wait any longer, any pruning will remove next years’ blooms, as these plants bloom on last years’ wood. Water as needed and fertilize with a good slow release balanced fertilizer.

Since Oakleaf hydrangeas can get pretty large; as much as 6 ft. by 6 ft., and in some cases even larger, make sure you space them appropriately.  As with most plants, they will be more successful if they have enough room to grow.  There is a dwarf variety if you are looking for a smaller plant; which is called PeeWee.  The mature size of the PeeWee is about 3 feet wide and 3 to 4 feet tall. Don’t be alarmed if you go to buy one and it looks like a twig!  Just make sure that there are several branches coming up for the base and that the leaves are healthy.  This plant really takes off after planting and will amaze you with it’s resilience!

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