Pruning. Correct pruning of crape myrtles is kind of a big deal; there is even a name for improper pruning… Crape Murder!  Usually, Crape Murder occurs when folks try to make a tree fit in a certain space, instead of planting the right size Crapemyrtle for that space. For smaller growing Crapemyrtles, please visit our Crapemyrtle Shrub inventory.  For pruning tips, please visit our blog post.

• Sun to Part Sun
• Summer blooming
• Usually a small to medium, multi-trunk tree
• Adaptable and easy to grow tree
• Mature size, bloom color and growth habit are species and variety specific
• Plant appropriately for the mature size of the tree
• Orange/ red fall color

Although Crapemyrtles are tough, in the past few years, a new and serious pest has become an issue on existing Crapemyrtles. Read more Crapemyrtle Bark Scale on this blog post. Keep in mind that this pest can be controlled if treated properly so don’t rule this plant out as an option!

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This article covers the topic of controlling Crapemyrtle (also sometimes spelled Crepe Myrtle, Crepemyrtle or Crape Myrtle) bark scale.

There is a new, serious threat to one of our favorite trees.  It’s even more serious than the unsightly and oft mentioned crape murder.  As a reminder, crepe murder is the extreme pruning of crepe myrtles that results in weakened and deformed trees.  If you aren’t sure how to properly prune your crepe myrtles, check out this post.  Okay, jumping off that soapbox, let’s talk about the Crapemyrtle Bark Scale.  It has been around the Southeast for years but this insect showed its destructive little head in Arkansas a few years.  Are we gonna just take this or are we gonna fight?  We say fight!

*Pictures of Crapemyrtle Bark Scale were provided by the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (let’s call it CMBS) is a small insect that appears as a white or gray felt-like encrustation.  CMBS might be found anywhere on crepe myrtles bark, and often appears near pruning sites and branch crotches of more mature wood.  Often times, the first sign of CMBS is the black sooty mold on the tree bark.  This may be misleading since a more common and easy to control pest, aphids, can also cause sooty mold.  Closely examine the affected areas to properly identify the pest.  Bring us samples or images if you aren’t sure.

This tree is heavily infested with CMBS; notice the gray and white insects all over and the black sooty mold covering the entire surface of the tree bark.

Life Cycle of CMBS

As with most insects, there are several life stages and the appearance of CMBS changes with the stages.  CMBS might be able to overwinter in the adult female and egg life stages, and crawlers and later stage nymphs have been observed overwintering under the loose bark and in cracks and crevices of crapemyrtles in our area.  In one year, there could be at least two generations of CMBS.  This can be a difficult pest to control and it may take multiple years of treatment.

So, how do we fight this pest?  Keep reading!

Again, black sooty mold with gray and white specs being CMBS.

Treatment

The best window for control is late April or early May as the crepe myrtles begin to really flush.  Apply a soil drench of an imidacloprid product such as Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench during this period.  If CMBS are in your area, it would be a good idea to apply this as a preventative measure during this window.  This imidacloprid product is a soil drench that is watered into the root zone, specifically in the drip line of the tree (above graphic) where the feeder roots are located.

Every month past May, the effectiveness of control decreases since the plants are growing less and less.  During times when crepe myrtle trees are not in leaf, apply sprays of dormant oil (containing paraffin oil), taking care to apply under loose bark and in cracks and crevices.

Here is the list of what you can do and when it needs to be done:

Anytime

Mix dishwashing soap with water and scrub the branches with a soft bristle brush. This is not necessary but it will remove the unsightly black sooty mold.  We have heard of people using pressure washers to remove sooty mold; we do not suggest this course of action, as it can cause  damage to the tree.

Late Fall-Early Spring

Once the tree defoliates or before it puts on new foliage, spray with a dormant oil.  This can be done multiple times.  Apply thoroughly, making sure to get the product under crevices in the bark and between branches.

Late April-Early May

Apply Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench.  Mix with water as directed, and apply in a band along the drip line of the plant, as a soil drench.  To measure the crepe myrtle, add up the circumference of all trunks at chest high (about 4.5 feet off the ground).  For example, if you have 5 trunks and the trunk circumference is 4 inches each, then you have a total of 20 inches in circumference.

The drench will need to be applied to the drip line of the plant.  The drip line of the plant is considered to be the outer circumference of the plant branches and inward toward the trunk several feet (see diagram above).  In order to apply this 20 ounces properly, it will need to be mixed into several gallons of water so that there is enough volume to be applied in a 3-4 foot band from the drip line in towards the tree trunk all the way around the plant.

Late Summer-Early Fall

Treat with Hi-Yield Systemic Insect Spray using a hose end sprayer.  This should be done after blooming has ended for the season.  Be sure to coat the trunk thoroughly.  As with all chemicals, use as directed on the label only. If the tree is located near other blooming plants, skip this step.  It’s not a crucial step in the control process and it’s not worth potentially damaging any beneficial insects.

For more information, visit the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service fact sheet.  We thank them for providing the images!  The Good Earth Garden Center has what you need to save your crepe myrtles….come see us!

The post Crapemyrtle Treatments appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

This article covers the topic of pruning Crapemyrtles (also spelled Crepemyrtle, Crepe Myrtle or Crape Myrtle). Quick note; this is a great time to inspect your crepes for a serious pest called Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (CMBS).  Here is our complete blog post on this pest, including how to identify and treat it.

When to Prune?

If you do choose to prune your crepe myrtles, pruning should take place in mid-February to avoid winter injury. Pruning should be done only to shape the tree; not to severely control plant height.

Pruning is also not necessary for blooming. The seed heads from last year can remain on the plant all year, and you will still get good blooming in the current year.

What is the correct method?

First of all, pruning crapemyrtles is optional; if the plant is in the correct place and can grow to its mature size, let it grow!

If you need to prune your crapemyrtle tree or shrub, thinning branches to limb up the crapemyrtle is the correct method. Remove lower limbs that are thinner than a pencil diameter.

While the plant is young, it is acceptable to prune the top of the branches. When it gets older, this is unacceptable.

As a bonus, pruning correctly is much less work than incorrectly pruning!

What is the incorrect method?

This is a well debated issue and one that plays out differently all over town.  Some of us even call the severe pruning of crapemyrtles ‘crape murder’!  Crape murder weakens the plant making it more susceptible to disease and insect infestations.

If the plant is improperly placed and gets too large for its current position, consider transplanting it before a severe pruning. Crapemyrtles transplant very well!

A severe pruning will result in a ‘knee’ and will result in many smaller weak limbs shooting out from the knee.  If cut in the same place each year, the plants develop a knob on the end which is particularly unsightly in the winter.  Pruning lower limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter is completely acceptable since this will not leave any scars.

There is one exception to this rule; harsh pruning of dwarf crapemyrtles is acceptable and will not result in ‘knees’.

If you are going to prune, prune correctly!

So, in conclusion, crapemyrtles trees are usually grown as small trees with 3 to 5 trunks that are kept free of small limbs up on the lower part of the tree (up to 2/3 of the height). Thinning of limbs every few years will encourage new growth and blooming but remember to prune only limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter.  While the trees are young, the tips of the small limbs can be pruned off (again only those a pencil width diameter or less).  As the tree grows, it become difficult and even dangerous to prune the top and it’s not necessary anyway.  Here are a few images of correct and incorrect pruning.

And if you are in the market for a crepe myrtle, remember that they come in all sizes and bloom colors. Come see us and we will help you find the one that works best in your space so you can avoid crape murder!

Bad crapemyrtle pruning:

Good crapemyrtle pruning:

This is the correct way to prune a crapemyrtle!  Notice that the horticulturist is taking off only low limbs that are small in diameter, while leaving the large trunks in place.

Here are some images of tree crapemyrtles after both correct and incorrect pruning:

Growth after incorrect crapemyrtle pruning:

Growth after correct crapemyrtle pruning.  Isn’t that a beautiful tree?!

The post How to Prune Crapemyrtles Correctly appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

What is dormant oil?

Dormant oil refers more to when the oil has traditionally been applied rather than what it is made of. Newer dormant oil formulations are typically refined from petroleum oil, such as mineral oil. Unlike home remedies, they also contain an emulsifier to help water mix with the oil, which will provide more complete coverage of plant surfaces. Dormant oil may also be labeled as horticultural, superior or all-seasons oil; keep reading for more on this.

How does dormant oil work?

Dormant oils were first utilized to control insect pests on fruit trees, where an effective control that wasn’t harmful to pollinators and was safe for ingestion by humans was needed. The oil covers leaf and limb surfaces, suffocating insects and some insect eggs, which reduces harmful insect populations. It may also interfere with insect feeding. Dormant oils don’t leave a toxic residue and dissipate quickly, making them ideal for use on blooming plants that will have pollinators arrive later during the growing season. It is also considered safe to use around humans and pets.

What pests does dormant oil control?

Dormant oil sprays can control a variety of insect pests such as aphids, mealybug, thrips, whiteflies, adelgids, caterpillar eggs, leafhoppers, scale and mites. This control is more effective on young insects and less effective on more mature insects so timing and early intervention is key. With the destructive, newly discovered Crape Myrtle Bark Scale wreaking havoc in Little Rock, applying Dormant Oil is a crucial step in saving crape myrtles.  Read our blog post for additional control methods for CMBS. Dormant oil can also help control powdery mildew, a common foliar disease. Because dormant oil can be an effective aphid control, and aphids vector and spread viruses, it could be said that it also helps reduce plant viruses.

When should dormant oil be applied?

Although more traditional dormant oils should only be applied when a plant is dormant, newer formulations can be sprayed at alternate times of the year at a lower application rate. Because some new formulations may be used when the plants are not dormant, be aware that they may be called superior oils, horticultural oils or all-season oils. Since recommended application rates and temperature ranges differ between dormant oils, it’s imperative to read each product’s label and follow directions carefully. Failing to do so could result in plant leaves burning or essentially suffocating a plant. A good rule of thumb is to avoid spraying on sunny days (even during cooler weather) and avoid spraying when temperatures are freezing or close to freezing. The emulsifiers aren’t effective in low temperatures and coverage will be uneven. Also, avoid applying when severe freezing trends are expected within the following 3 to 4 days. Apply in early morning or late afternoon, and avoid spraying on days that temperatures above 90 degrees are expected. The ideal temperature range for application is between 40 and 70 degrees, with the day of application expected to stay above 50 for at least 24 hours. Drought stressed plants are more susceptible to oil damage; do not spray on drought stressed plants. Conversely, applying during very humid conditions reduces the rate of evaporation and can also cause burning. Apply when rain is not predicted for the next 24 hours. Do not apply if a sulfur based pest control product has been applied within the previous 30 days as the oil and sulfur combination can be toxic to plants. Fruit trees should only be treated with dormant oil when dormant; which is prior to bud swell. Applications may be repeated on fruit trees in 3 to 4 week intervals.

How should dormant oil be applied?

Spray with hose end sprayer (better for larger plants as the spray will go further) or pump sprayer, making sure to cover entire surface of branches, trunk and underside of leaves. Thoroughly rinse container and spray ends of both type of sprayer with water after use. This is needed to remove any clogs that could form if the oil solidifies after use. There are plants that are sensitive to oil applications; a list can usually be found on the product label. Applying to houseplants may cause injury; treat small portions of plants to test before treating entire plants. Read directions carefully; including safety instructions.

The post How to Effectively Use Dormant Oil appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

There is a fairly new, serious threat to one of our favorite trees.  It’s even more serious than the unsightly and oft mentioned crape murder.  As a reminder, crape murder is the extreme pruning of crapemyrtles that results in weakened and deformed trees.  If you aren’t sure how to properly prune your crapemyrtles, check out this post.  Okay, jumping off that soapbox, let’s talk about the Crapemyrtle Bark Scale.  It has been around the Southeast for years but this insect showed its destructive little head in Arkansas in 2014.  Are we gonna just take this or are we gonna fight?  We say fight!

*Pictures of Crapemyrtle Bark Scale were provided by the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (let’s call it CMBS) is a small insect that appears as a white or gray felt-like encrustation.  CMBS might be found anywhere on crapemyrtles, and often appears near pruning sites and branch crotches of more mature wood.  Often times, the first sign of CMBS is the black sooty mold on the tree bark.  This may be misleading since a more common and easy to control pest, aphids, can also cause sooty mold.  Closely examine the affected areas to properly identify the pest.  Bring us samples or images if you aren’t sure.

This tree is heavily infested with CMBS; notice the gray and white insects all over and the black sooty mold covering the entire surface of the tree bark.

Life Cycle of CMBS

As with most insects, there are several life stages and the appearance of CMBS changes with the stages.  CMBS might be able to overwinter in the adult female and egg life stages, and crawlers and later stage nymphs have been observed overwintering under the loose bark and in cracks and crevices of crapemyrtles in our area.  In one year, there could be at least two generations of CMBS.  This can be a difficult pest to control and it may take multiple years of treatment.

So, how do we fight this pest?  Keep reading!

Again, black sooty mold with gray and white specs being CMBS.

Treatment

The best window for control is late April or early May as the crapemyrtles begin to really flush, and can be applied through July.  Apply a soil drench of an imidacloprid product such as Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench during this period.  If CMBS are in your area, it would be a good idea to apply this as a preventative measure during this window.  This imidacloprid product is a soil drench that is watered into the root zone, specifically in the drip line of the tree (above graphic) where the feeder roots are located.

During times when crapemyrtle trees are not in leaf, apply sprays of dormant oil (containing paraffin oil), taking care to apply under loose bark and in cracks and crevices.

Here is the list of what you can do and when it needs to be done:

Anytime

Mix dishwashing soap with water and scrub the branches with a soft bristle brush. Although this step isn’t completely necessary, it can reduce female scale insects and egg masses and make chemical controls more effective.

Late Fall-Early Spring

Once the tree defoliates or before it puts on new foliage, spray with a dormant oil.  This can be done multiple times.  Apply thoroughly, making sure to get the product under crevices in the bark and between branches.

Late April-Early May through July

Apply Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench.  Mix with water as directed, and apply in a band along the drip line of the plant, as a soil drench.  To measure the crapemyrtle, add up the circumference of all trunks at chest high (about 4.5 feet off the ground).  For example, if you have 5 trunks and the trunk circumference is 4 inches each, then you have a total of 20 inches in circumference.

The drench will need to be applied to the drip line of the plant.  The drip line of the plant is considered to be the outer circumference of the plant branches and inward toward the trunk several feet (see diagram above).  In order to apply this 20 ounces properly, it will need to be mixed into several gallons of water so that there is enough volume to be applied in a 3-4 foot band from the drip line in towards the tree trunk all the way around the plant.

Late Summer-Early Fall

Treat with Bonide Systemic Insect Spray using a hose end sprayer.  This should be done after blooming has ended for the season.  Be sure to coat the trunk thoroughly.  As with all chemicals, use as directed on the label only.

For more information, visit the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service fact sheet.  We thank them for providing the images!  The Good Earth Garden Center has what you need to save your crapemyrtles….come see us!

The post How to Control Crapemyrtle Bark Scale! appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

Why prune?

Spring pruning is done for several purposes, such as to shape, encourage new growth, and clean up. Not all plants require pruning so ask questions and have a game plan before getting the tools out. Keep the goal in mind when pruning; it’s easy to get carried away! A good rule of thumb is to remove no more than 30% of the plant when pruning…more than that can stress the plant, causing a decline in health and an increase in pests.

When to prune in Arkansas?

Knowing what to prune and when is crucial. Prune ornamental grasses, crepe myrtles, most roses, fruit trees and evergreen perennials in February. Evergreen shrubs and groundcovers can be pruned in March. Wait to prune spring flowering shrubs such as azaleas and forsythia until after they bloom…otherwise the blooms will be removed. Visit our gardening calendar for more complete schedule!

Don’t be guilty of Crape Murder!

As mentioned above, it can be easy to remove too large a portion of the plant. Crapemyrtles are often pruned too much and poorly…this practice is called ‘crape murder’. These trees don’t require any pruning but are often cut back severely, causing large unattractive ‘knees’ or knots to form. Learn how to properly prune crape myrtles by on this post and You Tube channel. Also, check out How to Control Crapemyrtle Bark Scale, a very destructive pest.

How to Prune?

Hand pruners, shearers, loppers, chain saws…just what is needed for proper pruning? Felco hand pruners will work on most shrubs, grasses and perennials. Use loppers on larger limbs and branches. Before pruning, check tool blades and sharpen as needed.  And for more in-depth information, come see us!

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This is a well debated issue and one that plays out differently all over town.  Some of us even call the severe pruning of crapemyrtles ‘crape murder’!  Here are some facts to base your pruning practices on:

1.  Pruning of tree crapemyrtles is optional; if the plant is in the correct place, let it grow.

2.  If the plant is improperly placed and gets too large for its current position, consider transplanting it before a severe pruning.  These plants transplant very well!  A severe pruning will result in a ‘knee’ and will result in many smaller weak limbs shooting out from the knee.  If cut in the same place each year, the plants develop a nob on the end which is particularly unsightly in the winter.  Pruning lower limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter is completely acceptable since this will not leave any scars.

3.  If you do choose to prune your crapemyrtles, pruning should take place in February to avoid winter injury.

4.   Pruning is NOT necessary for blooming.  The seed heads from  last year can remain on the plant all year, and you will still get good blooming in the current year although not as large and profuse.

5.  Crapemyrtles come in all sizes; harsh pruning of dwarf crapemyrtles is acceptable and will not result in ‘knees’.

6.  As a bonus, pruning correctly is much less work than incorrectly pruning!

So, in conclusion, crapemyrtles trees are usually grown as small trees with 3 to 5 trunks that are kept free of small limbs up on the lower part of the tree (up to 2/3 of the height). Thinning of limbs every few years will encourage new growth and blooming but remember to prune only limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter.  While the trees are young, the tips of the small limbs can be pruned off (again only those a pencil width diameter or less).  As the tree grows, it become difficult and even dangerous to prune the top and it’s not necessary anyway.  Here are a few images of correct and incorrect pruning.

Bad pruning:

This is the correct way to prune a crapemyrtle!  Notice that she (Janet Carson I think!) is taking off only low limbs that are small in diameter, while leaving the large trunks in place.

Here are some images of tree crapemyrtles after both correct and incorrect pruning:

Growth after incorrect crapemyrtle pruning:

Growth after correct crapemyrtle pruning.  Isn’t that a beautiful tree?!

The post How to Prune Crapemyrtles! appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.