This article covers the topic of controlling Crapemyrtle (also sometimes spelled Crepe Myrtle, Crepemyrtle or Crape Myrtle) bark scale.

There is a new, serious threat to one of our favorite trees.  It’s even more serious than the unsightly and oft mentioned crape murder.  As a reminder, crepe murder is the extreme pruning of crepe myrtles that results in weakened and deformed trees.  If you aren’t sure how to properly prune your crepe myrtles, check out this post.  Okay, jumping off that soapbox, let’s talk about the Crapemyrtle Bark Scale.  It has been around the Southeast for years but this insect showed its destructive little head in Arkansas a few years.  Are we gonna just take this or are we gonna fight?  We say fight!

*Pictures of Crapemyrtle Bark Scale were provided by the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (let’s call it CMBS) is a small insect that appears as a white or gray felt-like encrustation.  CMBS might be found anywhere on crepe myrtles bark, and often appears near pruning sites and branch crotches of more mature wood.  Often times, the first sign of CMBS is the black sooty mold on the tree bark.  This may be misleading since a more common and easy to control pest, aphids, can also cause sooty mold.  Closely examine the affected areas to properly identify the pest.  Bring us samples or images if you aren’t sure.

This tree is heavily infested with CMBS; notice the gray and white insects all over and the black sooty mold covering the entire surface of the tree bark.

Life Cycle of CMBS

As with most insects, there are several life stages and the appearance of CMBS changes with the stages.  CMBS might be able to overwinter in the adult female and egg life stages, and crawlers and later stage nymphs have been observed overwintering under the loose bark and in cracks and crevices of crapemyrtles in our area.  In one year, there could be at least two generations of CMBS.  This can be a difficult pest to control and it may take multiple years of treatment.

So, how do we fight this pest?  Keep reading!

Again, black sooty mold with gray and white specs being CMBS.

Treatment

The best window for control is late April or early May as the crepe myrtles begin to really flush.  Apply a soil drench of an imidacloprid product such as Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench during this period.  If CMBS are in your area, it would be a good idea to apply this as a preventative measure during this window.  This imidacloprid product is a soil drench that is watered into the root zone, specifically in the drip line of the tree (above graphic) where the feeder roots are located.

Every month past May, the effectiveness of control decreases since the plants are growing less and less.  During times when crepe myrtle trees are not in leaf, apply sprays of dormant oil (containing paraffin oil), taking care to apply under loose bark and in cracks and crevices.

Here is the list of what you can do and when it needs to be done:

Anytime

Mix dishwashing soap with water and scrub the branches with a soft bristle brush. This is not necessary but it will remove the unsightly black sooty mold.  We have heard of people using pressure washers to remove sooty mold; we do not suggest this course of action, as it can cause  damage to the tree.

Late Fall-Early Spring

Once the tree defoliates or before it puts on new foliage, spray with a dormant oil.  This can be done multiple times.  Apply thoroughly, making sure to get the product under crevices in the bark and between branches.

Late April-Early May

Apply Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench.  Mix with water as directed, and apply in a band along the drip line of the plant, as a soil drench.  To measure the crepe myrtle, add up the circumference of all trunks at chest high (about 4.5 feet off the ground).  For example, if you have 5 trunks and the trunk circumference is 4 inches each, then you have a total of 20 inches in circumference.

The drench will need to be applied to the drip line of the plant.  The drip line of the plant is considered to be the outer circumference of the plant branches and inward toward the trunk several feet (see diagram above).  In order to apply this 20 ounces properly, it will need to be mixed into several gallons of water so that there is enough volume to be applied in a 3-4 foot band from the drip line in towards the tree trunk all the way around the plant.

Late Summer-Early Fall

Treat with Hi-Yield Systemic Insect Spray using a hose end sprayer.  This should be done after blooming has ended for the season.  Be sure to coat the trunk thoroughly.  As with all chemicals, use as directed on the label only. If the tree is located near other blooming plants, skip this step.  It’s not a crucial step in the control process and it’s not worth potentially damaging any beneficial insects.

For more information, visit the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service fact sheet.  We thank them for providing the images!  The Good Earth Garden Center has what you need to save your crepe myrtles….come see us!

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Well, here we go again!  This pest has been around for a while but our team hasn’t experienced many homeowners bringing in affected (er, rather infected) plant samples before now.  And much like the now dreaded but common Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale, this issue affects one of our most commonly used, and beloved by many, landscape plants… the loropetalum aka Fringe Flower, pictured in full purple-leaved glory above.

What is loropetalum gall?

It’s a bacterial gall called Pseudomonas savastanoi. This gall is an issue for plants in the olive family, which includes oleander, forsythia, ash privet and as you might have guess, olives.  One reason we expect to see it most on loropetalums is that this is a more commonly used plant and is usually pruned often.  And while gardeners may have a forsythia or two, they often have many loropetalums.

There is a bit of information out there that suggests this particular gall may be a slightly more specific strain of Pseudomonas savastanoi and may not affect all plants in the olive family.  To be safe, we suggest following the sanitation and prevention guidelines listed below on all olive family plants mentioned just above.

What does it do to loropetalums?

There are many different kinds of gall out there, and some are pretty innocuous, posing mostly just aesthetic concerns. This isn’t that. Bacterial gall of loropetalum causes plant decline by girdling, or cutting off nutrients and water to stems and branches above the gall.  The most common indication that this may be present is branch die back, yellowing leaves and leaf drop.

What does loropetalum gall look like?

The first signs of loropetalum gall will look like small bumps on branches. They could easily be mistaken for a pruning scar. As the gall grows large, it ‘opens’ and begins to show ragged, rough edges. Mature loropetalum galls are easily visible thickened, large bumpy areas on plant stems.

How is loropetalum gall transmitted?

Understanding how a disease or insect moves to and infects new material is a vital step in controlling the spread of any pest! Loropetalum gall is spread from infected plant to healthy plant by physical means, meaning primarily through unknowingly pruning an infected plant then moving to another plant for additional pruning, without sterilizing pruning tools in between.  Weather events that open wounds on plants can also allow for gall introduction.

So…. what can be done for loropetalum gall?

Sadly, once bacterial gall of loropetalums has been diagnosed, removal and discarding of infected plant material, and careful sterilization of pruning materials on existing healthy loropetalums (and other olive plant family members) is the best course of action. There is still research being done on the potential effectiveness of pruning under the visible gall (then sterilizing pruning tools, of course). Some research shows this can help slow the gall, but still unknown is whether this is a long or short term solution. One thing is for sure, it’s a little risky to leave a known infected plant in your landscape… because all it would take is one forgetful pruning session to spread it throughout your loropetalums.

Isopropyl alcohol and a bleach water solution both work to sterilize pruning materials. Sterilize when moving from one loropetalum plant to another, even if you see no signs of gall.  It can take several months after infection for symptoms to show. Follow up pruning with several applications of copper fungicide for good measure.

Other suggested control methods include pruning loropetalums during dry weather, as the gall spreads more easily in wet conditions.  And speaking of water, it’s recommended to avoid overhead watering and spacing plants well to aid in good air flow.  This is so leaves, branches and stems don’t stay wet too long.

This is another opportunity to bring up timing; when you water matters, especially when it comes to plant diseases.  Avoid watering at night, which allows water to sit on plant materials for a longer period of time.  Instead, water in the early morning, when the sun will soon be present and help dry plant surfaces.

As with many diseases, naturally occurring warm, wet weather provides the ideal environment for disease spread.  There isn’t much we can do about that; we live in Arkansas, where this is our normal spring and fall weather. But following good sanitation practices can help reduce spread.

Bottomline, look loropetalums over before purchasing, watch for signs of gall, remove plants if gall is evident, prune using proper sanitation practices, and proceed with a watchful eye.  Like we mentioned earlier in this post; early signs can be hard to see, this pest is fairly new in our area, and it’s one we don’t want to become more of an issue.

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If your spreader type isn’t mentioned on the bag, follow these steps to figure out the proper setting:  If the bag says to use 2 lbs per 1000 square feet, start by measuring off 1,000 square feet, use a low setting and see how long it takes to cover the 1,000 square feet.  Adjust setting accordingly.

Close the spreader when you get close to beds or sidewalks so no product is wasted.  Remember, for good coverage, go one way at ½ recommended rate, and then the other way at ½ recommended rate.  Broadcast spreaders are made to overlap so don’t worry if your lines aren’t exact.  Rinse the spreader well after use.

Spreaders are used on lawns to apply insect control, pelletized lime, fertilizers, fungicides, weed preventers and weed killers.

That’s it! Now you know how to use a spreader!

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Warm Wet Weather

Warm, wet weather brings on fungus…and we get our share of this kind of weather, which means our landscape plants and lawns often have fungus issues.  Let’s take about landscape plants first!  So what does a fungus look like?  Usually, the symptoms of fungus are easily identifiable…round black spots, irregular brown spots or a downy, white dusting on leaves.  Some of our most beloved landscape plants are susceptible to fungus including Indian Hawthorn, Roses, Lilacs, Hydrangeas, Columbine and Dogwood trees to name a few.  While some plants are more susceptible, keep in mind that pretty much any plant could get a fungus if the conditions are conducive and the fungus spores are present. However, there are some things we can do to help avoid fungus infections.

Good Air Flow

Space plants based on mature size.  Properly spaced plants have more air flow between them, which keeps foliage drier both after a rain and after irrigation applications.  For example, KnockOut Roses can grow to at least four foot tall.  Ideally, they would be spaced about five feet apart, from center to center, at planting.  We understand the temptation to plant closer together when the new, young plants are small, but the extra maintenance involved with pruning and harder control disease outbreaks just aren’t worth it!

Proper Watering Timing

We mentioned irrigation above; the amount of water is less important than when you water, at least when trying to avoid fungus issues.  Watering early in the morning is ideal so that the foliage can dry fast as the sun and wind pick up for the day.  Conversely, watering in the evening provides the perfect circumstance for fungal growth…hours of water sitting on foliage in a dark environment.  Bottom line, water in the early morning and space your plants out properly.

Prevention and Control of Fungus in Landscape Plants

That covers all that we can control; the environment and weather have big roles too.  Obviously, in an area with warm, humid spring and fall seasons, no matter how carefully you have taken care of your plants, fungus is unavoidable. Once a plant is infected, the best solution is to treat it with a systemic fungicide such as Ferti-Lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide.  For roses, there is also a product from Bayer called All in One Rose & Flower Care that includes a fungicide as well as a fertilizer and insect control product; this works well as a preventative treatment.

Apply fungicide sprays when the foliage is completely dry and will remain dry for about 24 hours; this will allow it to be fully absorbed.  Take note of how long the products treats for; additional sprays might be necessary during prolonged wet spells and while conditions are good for fungal growth.  The systemic fungicide will be absorbed and distributed throughout the plant, protecting new leaves from being infected and kill spores present on leaves which will reduce spreading.  Non-systemic fungicides such as Bonide’s Copper Fungicide will kill active fungus spores already on leaves and is good for edibles.

Keep in mind that the treatment process can take several applications and infected leaves will most likely turn yellow and fall off.  Be sure to remove and dispose of infected leaves to help reduce spread of fungus.  Plants that are susceptible to fungus can be sprayed at a preventative rate; read labels carefully, the rate for preventative sprays is different than the curative rate.

Prevention and Control of Fungus in Lawns

Now on to the lawn!  Lawn fungus symptoms include large circular or slightly irregular, thinning, brown spots that grow in size each year.  As with landscape plants, there are some control measures we can put in place before the occurrence of fungus to help reduce the chances of infection and impact the recovery time.  Fertilize with slow release fertilizer instead of a fast release, high Nitrogen fertilizer.  Water lawns deeply, less frequently, as opposed to more frequent, shallow waterings.  This will encourage better root growth.  Provide good drainage, both on the surface and subsurface of the lawn areas.  Good drainage insures that water can quickly move out of lawn areas.  As we talked about above, clearly we aren’t in control of the rain and temperatures.  However, we can control the fertilization and water we apply, as well as address drainage.

Once symptoms of fungus are visible, treat as soon as possible with Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control or Ferti-Lome F-Stop granules or Ferti-Lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide, available as a liquid spray.  Treat the entire lawn area to help control spread.  This will need to be done while conditions for fungal growth are present and for the next few years as well.  Preventative applications on lawns before the wet, warm season are helpful.  Apply in March at preventative rates as the warm season grasses start greening up.

For plant materials that are too large to spray, keep in mind that most foliar fungus diseases on trees and shrubs will cease being active when we reach temperatures consistently above 90 degrees.  For large healthy plants, the issue will more of an aesthetic one than one that could cause plant death. The same is true for shrubs like hydrangeas; it’s more unsightly than dangerous but if let go too long for too many years, it could cause a decline of plant health.

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If you notice something off about a plant in your yard, don’t wait to address the issue. Let us help you identify the problem, treat it, and prevent it in the future. Gregg walks us through three common issues we see popping up in local yards.

A customer brought in a clipping from their cherry tree to get guidance on treatment steps (something we always welcome.) In this instance, the problem was a tip borer. Gregg says we haven’t seen these in years! The borer will work its way right into the base of the limb and damage the branch. Luckily, we were able to send the customer home with a treatment plan to prevent further damage.

Have you ever noticed holes in the center of some of your leafy greens? Those holes are often the work of caterpillars. Holes cut into the edges of a leaf are more likely grasshoppers. There’s treatment available to fight both. Call or visit us to make sure you have what you need to keep your greens healthy.

You might also see unusual looking leaves on your camellias. The leaves are thickened and distorted, and although it may look very concerning, it’s not a big issue. Just remove the affected leaves; it won’t spread if you leave it on there.

Grasshoppers love to creep up on your foliage. There are a couple of ways to treat them, one being to pluck them off your plants by hand! If that’s not your speed, Gregg and Jeff go into the details of your treatment options in the following clip.

And finally, crapemyrtle bark scale is always something to keep an eye out for. If you’re worried your crapemyrtle is infected, check out this blog post to explore treatment options! We have a wealth of experience to offer you, so don’t hesitate to reach out with additional questions.

Our Learning Center is full of great resources to equip you with the tools you need to help your yard thrive. Always feel free to call us at (501) 868-4666 or stop by and see us at 15601 Cantrell Rd, Little Rock, AR 72223! We’re here to help!

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Today on the Good Earth Greenhouse, Gregg and Jeff are talking about Spreader Sticker.  Keep reading to learn what it is, and why using it so important to good weed control.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale

Before we get to Spreader Sticker, we wanted to mention that this past year, we saw more crapemyrtle bark scale issues than in any other year since it was discovered locally about 5 years ago.  This could be due to lack of treatment or even incorrect treatment on affected crepe myrtles.  For details on how to treat this detrimental pest, please visit our blog post.

Controlling Wild Onions

Wild onions are a difficult weed to kill. When you are walking around your lawn or drive up to your home and see these evergreen sprouts in your landscape, the issue may look too small to really get concerned about. While the clump may look small from the top, there could be as many as 100 bulbs in the root area. If not treated correctly, the clump will continue to grow and spread.

What Will Not Work?

Here are some tips on what NOT to do:

• Cut the top growth off with mower or weed eater
• Use Round-Up to control wild onions
• Try to pull it up

Removing the top growth or removing just some of the bulbs can encourage the plant to grow more and at a faster rate than if it had been left alone.

What Will Work?

Apply Image and Spreader Sticker solution. Image is a chemical weed control product that works by stopping the plant’s photosynthesis process, which is the process of producing nutrients for the plant.  Without photosynthesis producing nutrients for the plant, it is forced to use up what has been stored in the bulb.  Once that is gone, the plant will decline and die.  This can take up to 6 weeks to happen so patience is key.

What is Spreader Sticker?

Spreader Sticker helps chemical controls be more effective by increasing the distribution and adhesion of them. It also opens pores, allowing more of the chemical control to enter. Because using Spreader Sticker increases effectiveness, it decreases chemical usage.

As an example of Spreader Sticker opening and allowing chemicals through pores, Gregg put Spreader Sticker in a styrofoam cup with red food coloring.  In the video, you can clearly see how the solution has come through the cup sides.  This would not happen with regular water!

Does it Matter?

Yes.  Using the right product, applying at labelled rates and at the right time of year absolutely matters. Chemical controls only work as intended if they are applied properly.  Incorrectly applying chemicals can waste valuable time and money.

We invite you to call or email us with any treatment questions on this or other topics.

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• There are three basic kinds of sprayers… we will start with hose end sprayers, which simply attach to the end of a water hose.  These have a bottle for the concentrated chemical to go in…or some bottles fit directly on the sprayer, no mixing needed. Hose end sprayers are usually used for insecticides, fungicides and herbicides. Set the hose end sprayer to the correct number on the dial by reading the chemical label to see how many teaspoon or tablespoons are recommended per gallon.  The main dial is for tablespoons and removing this pin and placing it in the tube here will restrict the chemical flow and turn the dial setting into a teaspoon rate.  Attach the sprayer to the chemical bottle, turn on the water and spray, soaking the intended plant materials.  Coverage is key for control so spray both the top and undersides of leaves and trunk plus any debris under the plant.  Hose end sprayers can reach up to 45 feet, depending on water pressure.  Plus there is no mixing of chemicals needed!

• Pump up sprayers are great for weed control.  Measure the chemical according to directions, add it to the container, then add the recommended amount of spreader sticker to increase the chemical’s effectiveness.  Put the lid on and swirl it around to mix it.  Pump the sprayer up, adjust the nozzle for spray pattern and spray.

With hose end sprayers and pump up sprayers, make sure you triple rinse the container before storing and run water through the nozzles to rinse the applicator.

• Last would be a no-clog sprayer, which used to apply a water soluble fertilizer only such as BR-61.  This sprayer should not be used for pesticide applications.

That’s it!  You are ready to spray your lawn and garden chemicals!  Be sure to follow label instructions carefully.

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This Spring’s unusual weather has lawns looking a little under the weather! For one thing, the warmer temperatures prompted many people to apply fertilizer, and then the cooler night temperatures arrived; creating the perfect environment for fungus growth. The wacky temperatures in March also prompted the lawns to break dormancy…and that process slowed to a crawl when the temps got low again. We are seeing this dormancy issue affect bermuda lawns and even some zoysia lawns. The mild winter we experienced did nothing to knock back the insect population, including grubs. So we are left with questionable looking lawns that need a little rescuing!

1. Apply a granular fungicide, such as Bonide Infuse to treat and prevent fungus growth, especially if you had fungus symptoms last year.

2. Pre-emerge for weeds! Yes, we will always mention this when speaking of lawns because it should be done every 60-90 days since different weed seeds are germinating all season.

3. For existing weeds, spray with Ferti-Lome Weed Out in temperatures under 90 degrees. We will start seeing sedge weeds soon, so remember that Sedgehammer and Sedge Ender are the best products to control the sedge.

4. Wait to fertilize until night temperatures are above 60 degrees. And while we are talking fertilizer…there is a difference between say a 13-13-13 and a higher quality fertilizer. Think of it like this; a 13-13-13 or simple fertilizer is like taking a multi-vitamin that has only vitamins A, D, E, whereas with the better fertilizers by Ferti-Lome and Bonide are like taking a complete vitamin. The micro-nutirents in a high quality fertilizer provide a greater range of strengthening and will help the lawn and soil actually become healthier. A high quality fertilizer is also time-release so instead of all the goodness being used up immediately, there is a long term benefit to your lawn. Good Earth Weed Preventer is pre-emerge and fertilizer so it’s a perfect product to use.

5. As mentioned at the beginning, grubs have established quite a presence this year! And if you have one grub, you have grubs and need to start treating. Some of the products advertize that one treatment will last all season. More and more, we are seeing that one treatment is not enough. You need to apply grub control in the Spring and in the Summer for several years to really get them under control.

6. Water is just as important as all this other stuff, and proper watering doesn’t happen as often as you might hope! This is a great time of year to get an inspection of your sprinkler system so that dry spots are found before the temperatures get high this summer. The Good Earth offers this service, and has an experienced sprinkler team that can address issues as they are discovered.

To solidify your new powers; read on! Be sure to read any product instructions carefully on each bag because the application rates vary.  And as you might guess, if you don’t want to mess with your lawn at all, The Good Earth has a maintenance department! So, all is not lost…you lawn can be rescued with a little work and the right information, so put on that cape and get to it!

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Damaging insects can cause a destructive domino effect.  For example, aphids produce a substance that can quickly become an ideal environment for spores of sooty mold to collect and germinate. This is pretty common on crapemyrtles.  Proper treatment requires both an insecticide to control the aphids and a fungicide for the sooty mold.  Ferti-Lome Triple Action will treat both, but since it’s a contact spray and not systemic, follow up with a systemic fungicide and insecticide. Even though not all insects create fungus problems, they all weaken the plants.  A wonderful systemic insect control by Ferti-Lome is called Systemic Insect Drench for trees and shrubs, and it will treat for 12 months!  For best results, apply when plants first break dormancy in the spring. The Insect Drench treatment can prevent all sorts of common insect problems such as lacebugs, scale, whiteflies, spider mites, borers, bagworms and aphids. This drench also controls crapemyrtle bark scale, which is a serious pest on this beloved tree.

Don’t know what you have?  Bring an infected plant sample in to The Good Earth for diagnosis.  Just be sure to seal up your sample and bring it within a few hours of collection!  For plants that have existing insect problems, treat with Ferti-Lome Systemic Insect Control, which is available in both ready-to-use and concentrate bottles.  Borer damage has been especially prevalent this year; even on plants like arborvitae, an unusual plant host for this pest.  We have even seen them on crapemyrtles. Crazy! Treat with Ferti-Lome Borer, Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar and Leafminer Spray or with Hi-Yield 38 Plus which should be sprayed with a surfactant. During high temperatures, be sure to spray only in the late evening or early morning.

Since we cannot control the weather, and Arkansas often has the perfect fungus-inducing conditions, here are some prevention tips.  First, plant disease resistant varieties, such as Knock-Out Roses.  Secondly, air flow is key on cutting down the occurance of fungus and insect problems, so space plants appropriately.  When planting shrubs that are prone to disease, be sure to account for the mature size of the plant.  And this last tip is very important; if possible, modify your sprinkler system so that the plant roots are receiving the water instead of the foliage. The Good Earth Wet Tech Team can help with these modifications.

Lawns are showing the effects of both fungus and grub damage.  For control of fungus in lawn, use Ferti-Lome F-Stop granules. For the best grub control, use Bayer Season Long Grub Control which can be applied from mid-May to mid-August.  Be sure to water the grub control in completely, as directed on the label.  As with all products, read the labels carefully to insure the best results.

Don’t forget to bring your samples to the experts at The Good Earth Garden Center. Landscaping is an investment, and we want to help it grow!

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