General Category Archives - The Good Earth Garden Center https://thegoodearthgarden.com/category/general/ The Good Earth Garden Center has plant rental, hardscape and outdoor rooms, DIY Landscape Assistance, Landscape Planning & Installation Fri, 29 Mar 2024 16:23:59 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.2 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/cropped-favicon-32x32.jpg General Category Archives - The Good Earth Garden Center https://thegoodearthgarden.com/category/general/ 32 32 34020795 2024 Valentine’s Day Gift Ideas For Gardeners in Arkansas https://thegoodearthgarden.com/valentines-day-gift-ideas-for-gardeners/ Sun, 04 Feb 2024 20:52:41 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=12953 We have been stocking up, getting ready for the spring season, and lucky for you, just in time for the Valentine’s Day holiday!  Check out a few of our favorite gift ideas for gardeners.  And remember, we also offer Good Earth gift cards!       We are very well stocked with chimes, colorful rain... Read more »

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]]> We have been stocking up, getting ready for the spring season, and lucky for you, just in time for the Valentine’s Day holiday!  Check out a few of our favorite gift ideas for gardeners.  And remember, we also offer Good Earth gift cards!

 

 

 

We are very well stocked with chimes, colorful rain chains and garden ornaments.  This particular one is perfect for Valentine’s Day gift for gardeners and one of our favorites!

 

 

 

This nice, durable apron and gardening tools, along with some plant markers make a perfect gardener’s gift basket!

 

 

 

Colorful Good Birds!  These are unique to Good Earth and make perfect little porch or garden art!

 

 

 

Good Earth gift cards for gardeners are always a great option…

 

 

Sara Reeves Photo

These coco leaf lamps brighten any space! They can be placed outdoors in a covered area.

 

 

 

Indoor blooming plants like these lovely cyclamen can make the best gift for gardeners who have everything.

 

Sara Reeves Photo

Fragrant candles in recycled wine bottles!

 

 

 

A fun planter, a fresh houseplant and a mister make a great gift option.

 

 

 

Cheerful chimes!

 

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]]> 12953 Our Favorite Pumpkin Recipes! https://thegoodearthgarden.com/our-favorite-pumpkin-recipes-2/ Tue, 26 Sep 2023 15:02:16 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=13267   ‘Tis the season… the PUMPKIN season and we are here for it!  You might have guessed that being around tons of freshly picked pumpkins and gourds inspires us to do some cooking and baking, and if so, you were correct!  Our team loves this time of year, and the opportunity to share our fall... Read more »

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‘Tis the season… the PUMPKIN season and we are here for it!  You might have guessed that being around tons of freshly picked pumpkins and gourds inspires us to do some cooking and baking, and if so, you were correct!  Our team loves this time of year, and the opportunity to share our fall favorites, including our go-to pumpkin recipes.  Check out our newest batch below, featured here on KARK4 and FOX16:

(keep in mind that pie pumpkins, fairytale pumpkins and many others can be used as opposed to canned pumpkin puree)

Maya’s Favorite Pumpkin Recipe is from In Bloom Bakery

Pumpkin Cheesecake Cookies

For the Cheesecake Filling

  • 6 oz (170 g) cream cheese, cold
  • 3 tablespoon (38 g) granulated white sugar
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla

For the Spiced Sugar

  • ¼ cup (50 g) granulated white sugar
  • ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

For the Pumpkin Cookies

    • ½ cup (122 g) canned pumpkin puree (or baked pie pumpkin)
    • 1 ¾ cups (219 g) all-purpose flour, spooned and leveled
    • 1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice
    • ½ teaspoon baking powder
    • ½ teaspoon baking soda
    • ½ teaspoon salt
    • ¾ cup (168 g) unsalted butter, softened
    • 1 cup (220 g) light brown sugar
    • 2 egg yolks, at room temperature
    • 2 teaspoon vanilla

Instructions

For the Cheesecake Filling

1  Line a small cookie sheet with parchment paper.
2  Add the cream cheese, sugar and vanilla to a small bowl. Mix on medium-high speed with an electric mixer until fluffy and the sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes.
3  Scoop the cheesecake filling into 16, 2 teaspoon portions onto the baking sheet. (There will be a little bit left over in the bowl.)
4. Pop the cheesecake balls into the freezer until they are frozen and very firm.

For the Spiced Sugar

Add the sugar and pumpkin pie spice to a small bowl. Whisk to combine then set aside.

For the Pumpkin Cookies

1  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
2   Dry your pumpkin to get rid of excess moisture. This may seem weird but it is the only way these cookies will bake properly and not turn out cakey! Spread your pumpkin on a plate and place paper towels over the top. Lightly press to absorb the liquid. Repeat the step at least four more times until hardly any liquid transfers to the paper towel. (It needs to reduce down to just under ¼ cup from ½ cup). Then set aside.
3   In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, pumpkin pie spice, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Then set aside the flour mixture.
4   In a large bowl cream the softened butter and brown sugar together with an electric hand mixer on high speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add in the egg yolks and vanilla and mix for one minute on medium speed until pale and fluffy. Add in the dried pumpkin and combine on medium speed. Add in the dry ingredients and combine on low speed.
5   Scoop the dough into 16 portions with a 2 tablespoon cookie scoop, then roll into balls. Slightly flatten out each then place a frozen cheesecake ball in the center. Then close the cheesecake ball in with the cookie dough and roll into a ball again. Make sure the cheesecake is completely covered in cookie dough.
6. Roll the cookie dough balls in pumpkin spice sugar. (Keep the cheesecake balls in the freezer until ready to use for each batch of cookies.)
7  Transfer the cookie dough balls to the prepared baking sheet. Bake 6 cookies at a time for 12-13 minutes. Let the cookies cool for 10 minutes on the cookie sheet, then transfer the baked cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Then serve!

Maya’s 2nd Favorite Pumpkin Recipe is from Host the Toast

Pumpkin Cheesecake Truffles

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 4 ounces cream cheese, softened at room temperature
  • ½ cup canned pumpkin puree (or baked pie pumpkin)
  • 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
  • 1 ½ teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
  • ½ cup graham cracker crumbs
  • ⅓ cup white chocolate chips
  • Orange food coloring (or red and yellow food colorings), as needed, optional
  • Granulated sugar, as needed, for rolling
  • Chocolate chips, for topping

Instructions

Combine the butter, cream cheese, pumpkin, sweetened condensed milk, and pumpkin pie spice in a skillet over medium heat. Stir constantly until thickened and well-combined. Stir in the graham crackers and white chocolate chips until melted and smooth. Add a few drops of food coloring if desired.

Continue to stir until the pumpkin cheesecake mixture releases from the sides and bottoms of the pan when stirred. (If it doubt, cook a bit longer– it’s better to the thicker than too thin.)

Pour over a butter-greased baking sheet. Spread into an even layer and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours, or overnight.

Rub butter on your hands to prevent sticking and then roll the chilled pumpkin cheesecake dough into small balls.

Pour granulated sugar into a shallow bowl and roll the truffle balls in granulated sugar to coat.

Using a toothpick, make ridges along the sides of the pumpkin truffles. Top with chocolate chips to look like stems. Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to serve.

  • Prep Time: 30 mins
  • Cook Time: 15 mins

Kelly’s Favorite Pumpkin Recipe is from Boulder Locavore

Slow Cooker Spicy Pumpkin Chicken Corn Chowder

Ingredients

  • 1 cup Red Onion , chopped
  • 1 teaspoon Olive Oil
  • 1 pound Red New Potatoes , scrubbed and cut into bite-size pieces
  • 2 cup Frozen Corn Kernels
  • ¼ cup Flour (gluten-free or regular)
  • 6 cups Low Sodium Chicken Broth
  • 2 cups Rotisserie Chicken , shredded (home cooked chicken may also be used)
  • 1 15- ounce can Pumpkin (unseasoned); or the equivalent homemade baked pumpkin
  • 1 canned Chipotle Pepper , diced
  • 1 teaspoon Adobo Sauce (from the can of chipotle peppers)
  • ¼ cup Heavy Cream
  • Salt and Pepper to taste
  • Optional Garnish: crumbled bacon and torn cilantro leaves

Instructions

  • In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium high. Add the chopped onions and sauté until the onions are translucent. Set aside.
  • Add the potatoes and corn to the bottom of the slow cooker. Sprinkle with the flour and toss to fully coat the potatoes and corn. Spread evenly on the bottom of the slow cooker.
  • Add the sautéed onions evenly on top of the potatoes and corn, followed by the chicken.
  • Combine the broth and the pumpkin; gently stirring to combine them. Top with the chopped chipotle pepper and adobo sauce in the slow cooker.
  • Cook on high between 4-6 hours until the potatoes are soft. Stir in the cream. Salt and pepper for taste. Add garnish if desired and serve.
  • Garnish with crumbled bacon and torn cilantro if desired!

Sean’s Favorite Pumpkin Recipe is from BBC Good Food

Butternut Squash and Red Pepper Soup

  • 1 small butternut squash (about 600-700g), peeled and cut into chunks
  • 2 red pepper, roughly chopped
  • 2 red onion, roughly chopped
  • 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 3 garlic cloves in their skins
  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1.2l chicken or vegetable stock
  • 2 tbsp harissa paste
  • 50ml double cream

Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put all the veg on a large baking tray and toss together with rapeseed oil, garlic cloves in their skins, ground coriander, ground cumin and some seasoning. Roast for 45 mins, moving the veg around in the tray after 30 mins, until soft and starting to caramelise. Squeeze the garlic cloves out of their skins. Tip everything into a large pan. Add the chicken or vegetable stock, harissa paste and double cream. Bring to a simmer and bubble for a few mins. Blitz the soup in a blender, check the seasoning and add more liquid if you need to. Serve swirled with extra cream and harissa.

 

Izzy’s Favorite Pumpkin Recipe is from Miette

Chocolate Glazed Pumpkin Walnut Cake

Ingredients

For the cake:

  • 1 3/4 cups cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground clove
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 large eggs, room temperature
  • 1 2/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup vegetable or other neutral oil
  • 1 3/4 cups pumpkin puree or 1 14oz. can pure solid-pack pumpkin mixed with ¼ cup water
  • 1 cup toasted walnuts, chopped

For the chocolate glaze

  • 3.5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (50% – 70%), finely chopped
  • 4 tablespoons (2 oz.) butter
  • 1 tablespoon corn syrup (for shine)

Instructions

For the cake

  • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Liberally butter the bundt pan(s). Dust with flour and tap out the excess.
  • In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt.
  • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the eggs and sugar on medium speed until lightened in color and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the oil until combined, then increase speed to high for 1 minute. Switch to the paddle attachment and add the pumpkin puree, mixing on medium speed just until combined. Add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing just until combined after each addition (about 5 seconds each time, on low). Remove the bowl from the mixer, scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula, and mix in the walnuts.
  • Pour the batter into the prepared pan(s) and bake until the cake springs back when touched and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes for a large bundt pan and about 20 minutes for mini-bundts. Cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then invert the cake(s) onto a plate or wire rack and cool completely.

For the chocolate glaze:

  • Melt the chocolate, butter, and corn syrup for 30-second intervals in the microwave, or over a bain-marie (double boiler) of low-simmering water. Let cool until slightly thickened, then spoon over the cake(s). Let the cakes with chocolate firm up before serving, about 30 minutes.

Another Team Favorite from 3 Boys and a Dog

Pumpkin Punch

Ingredients

  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 4 cups apple cider
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 1 28-ounce can pumpkin puree (or baked pie pumpkin)
  • 2 cups club soda
  • Sliced orange for garnish
  • Cinnamon sticks for garnish

Instructions

  1. Combine water, sugar, and cinnamon in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
  2. In a large punch bowl, combine the apple cider, orange juice and pumpkin puree. Whisk until the pumpkin is smooth and all ingredients are well combined.
  3. Add the cinnamon syrup and club soda and gently stir to combine.
  4. Garnish with sliced oranges and cinnamon sticks.

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]]> 13267 Transplanting Perennials in the Fall https://thegoodearthgarden.com/transplanting-perennials-in-the-fall/ Wed, 02 Aug 2023 16:48:46 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=11571 Have overgrown perennials on one side of your garden and scarce to none on the other? Looking to rearrange the layout of a few beds? Whatever the reasons you may have for wanting to spruce up your garden, fall is the perfect time of year to make these changes! Perennials to Divide Some of the... Read more »

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]]> Have overgrown perennials on one side of your garden and scarce to none on the other? Looking to rearrange the layout of a few beds? Whatever the reasons you may have for wanting to spruce up your garden, fall is the perfect time of year to make these changes!

Perennials to Divide

Some of the many perennials that benefit from being divided include yarrow, bleeding heart, gayfeather, creeping jenny, sedum, dead nettle, foam flowers, coral bells, hellebores, ajuga, astilbe, phlox, iris, cannas, bergenia, anemonees, daylilies, hostas, stokesia, lamb’s ear, huechera, ornamental grasses and ferns. Although most perennials respond well and even need to be divided, some perennials should be left undisturbed. Avoid dividing peonies, lavender, goat’s beard, swamp milkweed, baptisia australis, candytuft, Russian sage, garden sage, rosemary, and euphorbia.

 

Reasons to Transplant Perennials

One of the easiest and healthiest changes you can make this fall for your plants, specifically perennials, is transplanting. By digging up, dividing, and transplanting perennials after summer, you are setting up your plants for a healthier spring the following year. Perennials can have a mind of their own and thrive in some spots and never really start in others. Transplanting your overgrown perennials helps keep them manageable and gives you fillers for the empty spaces in your beds. Older perennials often experience issues over time such as crowded roots which prevent the plant from properly absorbing nutrients and moisture from the soil. Dividing your perennials every few years fixes this by keeping their root structures healthy which increases blooms, and the best bonus for gardeners is all the additional, free plants.

Spring Verses Fall Blooming Perennials

When transplanting, do not dig up and divide fall blooming perennials during the fall or while they are in flower. One rule of thumb is to transplant fall-blooming perennials in spring and spring-flowering perennials in fall. Every time you dig up plants, some roots will be lost. Be mindful to dig when the temperatures have become cooler to not fry the frayed roots when they are transplanted.

 

Overall, transplanting is quick and simple. Follow these 5 steps below for an easy experience!

Five Simple Steps for Successfully Transplanting Perennials

  1. Selection

    1. Select healthy, mature plants for best results. Choose larger, older perennials with good growth patterns to ensure a healthy transplant.

  2.  Timing

    1. Dig when the soil is dry and the temperatures have cooled from summer. Saturated, overly soggy soil can compact the roots with mud which makes it difficult for plants to get the oxygen and nutrients needed for survival.

  3. The Dig

    1. Grab your favorite, preferably sharpest shovel and dig outside the plant’s root zone- typically equal to the outermost edge of the foliage.
    2. Try to keep as much of the root mass intact as possible. The more roots you save when digging the higher chances your transplant has of surviving.

  4. Dividing

    1. It may feel counter-intuitive, but when dividing, split from the bottom up aka roots to top.
      1. After digging your perennial out, lay its foliage down with the roots exposed upwards. With your sharp shovel, or knife, cut through the roots to divide and gently pull apart.
    2. This method allows you to divide in like-size sections and your new plants will grow and mature to be more similar in size.

  5. Transplant Transplant Transplant

    1. Do not let your newly sectioned plants sit around and dry out! The quicker you plant the divided perennials, the higher likelihood the roots will establish and survive.
    2. Grab your shovel again and dig a few new holes, maybe picking more bare areas in your beds, and add your plant with the foliage above soil and roots fully covered.
    3. Add compost! Compost is full of nutrients and will help retain moisture around the vulnerable roots. A 50/50 soil to compost mix is a great combination to fill in around your transplants.
    4. Water! Water more in the beginning and less frequently as the weather cools.

Don’t worry if your new transplant drops some foliage or even dies back as fall turns into winter. This is the natural process of dormancy. When spring rolls around, your perennials will come back in full force as their roots were able to develop and spread during the fall before winter. If you end up having too many newly divided plants, consider sharing the fun with your friends and family! For further information on dividing your perennials, check out this article or this video!

 

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]]> 11571 Arkansas Diamonds Program https://thegoodearthgarden.com/arkansas-diamonds-program/ Mon, 17 Jul 2023 19:08:34 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=13068 What is an Arkansas Diamond plant? Arkansas Diamonds are locally grown plants proven to be tough in Arkansas. New plant selections have been chosen and released each year since 2015! Arkansas gardeners now have quite a proven selection of plants to choose from with confidence in plant performance. How were these plants selected? Arkansas Diamonds... Read more »

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What is an Arkansas Diamond plant?

Arkansas Diamonds are locally grown plants proven to be tough in Arkansas. New plant selections have been chosen and released each year since 2015! Arkansas gardeners now have quite a proven selection of plants to choose from with confidence in plant performance.

How were these plants selected?

Arkansas Diamonds have been chosen by local growers, along with horticultural educators, gardeners and independent garden center team members to highlight outstanding plants that consistently perform well in Arkansas.

Where can Arkansas Diamonds be found?

Find Arkansas Diamonds at your local independent garden centers! Look for the Arkansas Diamonds logo when shopping, and feel confident that you are both supporting local growers AND purchasing a plant that will be successful in your garden.

What is the goal of the Arkansas Diamonds program?

This program is a partnership of the Arkansas Green Industry Association, the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service, local growers and local independent garden centers. The goal is to educate Arkansas gardeners about plants that consistently perform well here so that gardeners are more successful! The Arkansas Diamonds program also serves to promote local growers and local independent garden centers in our state.

Without further ado… meet our Arkansas Diamonds!

2023 Arkansas Diamonds include:

This was yet another first for the program; our first perennials!  Since the program goals include both education of gardeners AND promotion of local Arkansas growers, which tend to grow mostly annuals, perennials haven’t been in the mix. The perennials chosen include two tough, beautiful selections; purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Golsturm’).

There have been foliage plants chosen before, but this is maybe the first year that a very commonly used but somewhat overlooked plant was chosen; asparagus fern. Last but not least, the Cora series of upright vinca, which has excellent disease resistance and heat tolerance.  Polka Dot Cora Cascade, a trailing vinca, was chosen as a 2015 Arkansas Diamond, the very first year of the program (scroll all the way down for 2015 AD plant selections).

A description of these plants, along with a photo below:

 

2022 Arkansas Diamonds include:

 

This was an exciting year for the Arkansas Diamonds program as it brought the first herb plant to the table!  Lemongrass offers a variety of benefits, not only is it wonderful for adding flavor to various recipes, the plant repels mosquitos.  It is considered an annual but can be brought indoors to overwinter. Lemongrass does well in full sun, growing to a size of 3-5 feet tall and 3 feet wide.  Water as needed, and fertilize every few weeks for best success.

‘Honeybells’ Cuphea was the other warm season Arkansas Diamond selection in 2021.  This sun to part sun loving bloomer keeps going all summer, even in high heat weather. Deadheading isn’t necessary for vigorous blooming. Honeybells is a great pollinator, and grows to approximately 1 foot tall and 1 1/5 feet wide. It’s perfect in container plantings, or as an annual edge.

 

 

In 2021, the entire Cool Wave Pansy series was chosen as cool season Arkansas Diamond plant!  Cool Wave pansies have a spreading and trailing growth habit, making them perfect for container plantings AND in ground landscape plantings.  They require six hours of sun for best growth and blooming.  As far as spacing goes, planting three in a 10 or 12 inch container.  In the ground, they can spread anywhere from 18 to 24 inches in width.  Avoid letting these plants wilt or letting plants freeze when dry.  Water well at least 24 hours before freezing temperatures, paying special attention to containers that don’t receive rainfall.  At the time this series was chosen in 2021, there were 14 different varieties (color options) and 3 mixes.

2020 Arkansas Diamonds include:

 

2019 Arkansas Diamonds include all the plants listed below. This was the first year to introduce cool season Arkansas Diamond selections!

 

2018 Arkansas Diamonds include:

2017 Arkansas Diamonds include:

2016 Arkansas Diamonds include:

2015 Arkansas Diamonds include:

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]]> 13068 How to Create a Butterfly Garden! https://thegoodearthgarden.com/create-butterfly-garden/ Tue, 30 May 2023 21:00:20 +0000 http://useful-porpoise.flywheelsites.com/?p=2074 Learn how to attract and feed butterflies in your Arkansas garden with information provided by The Good Earth Garden Center!

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Butterfly Gardening

 

How to Create a Butterfly Garden!

Creating a garden or habitat for butterflies can be an exciting and rewarding project for you and your family.  These beautiful insects add active beauty to the garden as they feed, roost, and fly from bloom to bloom.  Many of the flowering shrubs, annuals, and perennials that provide food and shelter for butterflies can be found at the Good Earth Garden Center!

Creating a Butterfly Habitat

A habitat for butterflies is an environment that provides food, shelter and other things necessary…from eggs to larvae to pupae to adult.  Several of the components of this habitat are as follows:

  • Sunny Areas: Butterflies are coldblooded and need sunlight to absorb warmth for flight and other activities.
  • Water and Moist Areas: Most butterflies obtain water and nutrients/minerals from the moist areas found in and around your garden.  Swallowtails and other varieties will congregate around the edges of shallow depressions filled with water.  This behavior is commonly referred to as “mud-puddling”.
  • Shelter areas: Butterflies seek shelter on shrubs, log piles, stone and mortar walls…where they can bask in the sun, seek refuge from bad weather and predators, or hibernate.
  • Flowers:  Butterflies are attracted to a wide variety of flower shapes, colors, and nectars.  Mass plantings make it easier for the butterflies to discover the flowers.

Host Plants for Butterflies

After mating, the female butterfly searches for the proper “host” plant on which to deposit her eggs.  These host plants meet the needs of the butterfly during all four stages of its life cycle; egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, and adult.  Some of the host plants you can provide are:

  • Butterfly Weed (Monarch) * A MUST for butterfly gardens; read all about milkweed in this post!
  • Dill, Parsley, Fennel, Rue (Black Swallowtail)
  • Tulip Tree (Tiger Swallowtail)
  • Passion flower (Gulf Fritillary)

Nectar Flowers for Butterflies

There are many flowering shrubs, annuals, and perennials that supply food (nectar) for butterflies.

  • Annual Flowers: Penta, zinnia, marigolds, lantana, cosmos, impatiens, verbena, salvia, petunias, dianthus, torenia, celosia and ageratums.
  • Perennial Flowers: Coneflowers, asters, black-eyed susans, coreopsis, verbena, butterfly weed, cardinal flower, primrose, joe pye weed, agastache, bee balm and goldenrod.
  • Flowering Shrubs and Vines: Azaleas, butterfly bush (buddleia), hibiscus, white or pink viburnum, wisteria, honeysuckle, lilac, mock orange, clethra, Invincebelle Sublime hydrangea, and bougainvillea.

Planting Your Flowers and Shrubs

The staff at The Good Earth Garden Center will be glad to help you with all the plants and materials necessary for attracting butterflies to your garden!

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]]> 2074 Outdoor Fountain Care https://thegoodearthgarden.com/outdoor-fountain-care/ Thu, 30 Mar 2023 20:11:58 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=12866   Every wonder what’s in our Water Gallery? It’s our fountain display area, stocked full of running fountains as well as concrete statuary!  We carry a wide variety of fountains, in ever changing contemporary or classic designs, available in a wide range of shapes, sizes and finish colors. One of the first things our guests... Read more »

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Every wonder what’s in our Water Gallery? It’s our fountain display area, stocked full of running fountains as well as concrete statuary!  We carry a wide variety of fountains, in ever changing contemporary or classic designs, available in a wide range of shapes, sizes and finish colors.

One of the first things our guests ask is, ‘how do I take care of it?’  Although fountains are pretty simple to take care of, there are a few tips that will help it remain in tip-top shape for years to come. Whether you choose a free standing fountain or a pond-less fountain, start by having the right electrical set up, a level location, and a way to get water to it.  Also, for all fountains, try to keep tree limbs and shrubs trimmed back enough that they do not interfere with the operation of the feature.

Free Standing Fountains

This is the traditional fountain you likely think of when you consider fountains in general. Free standing fountains are self contained, which means you simply add water as needed. There is a basin to hold water and a submerged water pump, then tubing that moves water from the pump to another location from which the water then flows.

These types of fountains have a stopper or drain plug that can be removed for cleaning.  Always unplug the fountain from the power source or turn the power off before draining the pump.  If a submersible water pump runs when dry, the pump will burn up and no longer work. We recommend cleaning at least three times a year with a mild soap and a soft brush or cloth, making sure to remove debris like leaves and or dirt that has blown in over time. If your fountain is concrete, we recommend using Henri Concrete Sealer after cleaning and drying the concrete to protect the concrete and the color of the finish.

Summer Care

Algae is most prevalent is full sun situations, when water is warm.  Algae can discolor water and if left unchecked long term, it  can damage the finish. We recommend Sodium Percarbonate which is a dry granular form of Hydrogen Peroxide that when added to water creates a non-chlorine, pet and people friendly bleach, that kills the algae when applied regularly. Use Sodium Percarbonate in fountains with no aquatic life; not for use in natural water features. Mix approximately one teaspoon per ten gallons of water.

Winter Care

Before temperatures fall below freezing, it is recommended that you drain your fountain completely and cover so that water can not enter.  Water expands as it freezes and thaws, which can crack or damage the fountain.

Pondless Water Feature Care

These water features typically have a firm water basin/ reservoir beneath the fountainhead, which could be a boulder, container or plumbed statue of some sort.  In this basin, there are either strong AquaBlox or slotted grates that hold up the feature. Decorative stones usually cover the supporting grid, resulting in a disappearing water effect.

You can also use Sodium Percarbonate to control algae to keep the water running clear. The amount varies based on size but the ratio of one teaspoon per ten gallons of water is a good rule of thumb.

Unlike above ground, free standing fountains, when installed below ground, these pondless features are usually protected from freezing. During very cold freezing weather, ice could form. Any ice that forms reduces the volume of water moving through the feature. If the feature doesn’t have enough water to continually circulate at a good rate (ideally the entire volume of water should move twice an hour), the pump could burn up.  An additional potential issue, if the water level falls, is that the ice could completely freeze over.  If ice freezes solid and no water is moving in a pottery water feature, the ceramic pot could crack or sustain damage.

Feel free to contact us with questions!

 

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]]> 12866 How to Cultivate a Cutting Garden https://thegoodearthgarden.com/how-to-cultivate-a-cutting-garden/ Fri, 17 Mar 2023 22:49:43 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=13045 There are so many plants that work well in cut arrangements!  Notice we left out the word ‘flower’; some of the most interesting additions to an arrangement are interesting greenery or stems.  Proper planning will get you the best results.  If you want to harvest and arrange year-round, you might need to add larger plant... Read more »

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]]> There are so many plants that work well in cut arrangements!  Notice we left out the word ‘flower’; some of the most interesting additions to an arrangement are interesting greenery or stems.  Proper planning will get you the best results.  If you want to harvest and arrange year-round, you might need to add larger plant materials, such as shrubs and even trees.  If you are focused on spring through fall, it’s a bit simpler. Next, consider where you have room to add plants; how much room do you have, and how much sun does that area get?  Once this information has been collected and considered, it’s time to start researching your best options!

Late Winter Through Spring Arrangements

Spring blooming bulb plants like daffodils and tulips make wonderful cut flowers; just keep in mind that these need to be planted in the fall. Pansies are great for close up flowers; put these on your fall planting list as well.  Pansies, violas and panolas are wonderful accents to salads, and can be garnishments for baked goods, and can even be candied and added to cookie tops.  For more information, check out this post!

Early spring flowering stems such as forsythia, flowering quince, cherry, peach, crabapple, plum, pear, and even some deciduous magnolias like Star magnolias, can be cut and forced indoors. Cut after chilling requirements are met, and buds are completely formed, which for our area is usually by end of January or mid-February. Depending on how far along the flower buds are, it could take as much as a month or more, or it could be as fast as a week. After cutting, soak in water over night, place cut stems in lukewarm water, then put in an area with temps around 60 degrees. Change water as needed, mist buds to keep them hydrated and in general, avoid letting the stems dry out.

Non-traditional flowering but no less interesting stems include contorted filbert, curly willow, and even maple stems!  Late winter and early spring are wonderful times of the year to slow down and appreciate the simplicity of delicate blooms on bare stems.

Hellebores are also wonderful cut flowers; for longest lasting blooms, cut after the seed pods have developed. The more developed the seed pod, the sturdier the plant and longer lasting it will be. For more information about growing hellebores, check out this post!

Camellias are unique in so many ways!  There are fall blooming and late-winter/ early spring blooming types. They are broadleaf evergreens with nice foliage too.  You can create a whole bouquet just with stems from one healthy, blooming shrub. Or you can place short branches or just blooms in a clear wide vase filled with water and just float the blooms (this is also an option for pansy, crocus and hellebore blooms). So many options with camellias; all are lovely!

Summer to Fall Frost Arrangements

Annuals are the workhorse of a summer into fall cutting garden, but the varieties normally used as bedding plants tend to be too short to use. The ones we want grow tall and are often varieties started from seed. Some of the best options include zinnias, sunflowers, amaranth, celosia, and cosmos.

If you have never started from seed, don’t stress, all the information you need is on the back of the packet. Our last frost typically is around the end of March or beginning of April, so wait until after this time to plant seeds as soil temperatures need to somewhat warm, and tiny seedlings won’t fare well in a frost.  If starting seeds indoors, provide supplemental light, have good air flow and wait to plant in the ground until chance of frost has passed or have a solid protection plan for young seedlings.

Many of the perennials, shrubs, and trees in your yard can also make great cut flowers. As a bonus, most summer blooming perennials will rebloom when deadheaded, same concept with using for cuts. A few perennials to consider include coneflower, shasta daisy, gaillardia, tall phlox, veronica, coreopsis and yarrow.

Some once blooming plants can provide more than just flowers. Baptisia has dramatic spikes of pea-shaped blooms ranging from blue, white, yellow, or bicolored, and can have a vase life of 7-10 days when cut early and given floral preserves. It also provides foliage for the whole season and if seed pods are allowed to develop, they make wonderful additions to fall arrangements. Lemon Meringue is especially striking; the yellow is so bright and clear, it almost appears to glow!

Penstemon are great long blooming plants in the garden for hummingbirds, but do not last long in the vase. However, dried stems and seed pods from penstemon adds special interest for fall arrangements.

Just like the difference between bedding annuals and cut flowers, the mature growing size is key. For instance, White Wands veronica is a great plant for the garden with plenty of blooms but tops out at 14-16 inches in height. Blue Skywalker is twice the size at 28-30 inches, perfect for a small table top arrangement.

Herbs like rosemary, lavender, and oregano and flowers such as agastache and bee balm help provide fragrant blooms or foliage to an arrangement.

We left this one for last because it’s kind of the O.G. of cut flower gardens.  Peonies are a dramatic must-have for cutting gardens with the right amount of sun.  They may not rebloom all season, but that just makes them even more special. There is nothing quite like a bouquet of peony blooms… just ask about a million brides; peonies are an all-time wedding favorite! And bonus, the flowers are better enjoyed inside, protected from heavy rains that can quickly decimate blooms. Oh and they are perennials!

Fall to Winter Arrangements

Sometimes a plants flowers aren’t the major draw. Hollies are a great example of boring flowers that bring dramatic berries as we enter winter. Collect hollies, magnolias, and conifers for a mixed holiday decorations. Add in dried amaranth, celosia, hydrangea and statice blooms for more interest.  And consider adding dried seed pods and cones.

Other plants to consider during fall (and/or winter) include our native or improved nativars of beautyberry, blooming stems from abelia shrubs (or even just foliage stems), stems from mahonia, illicium, viburnum, acuba, itea, oakleaf hydrangea, solidago, ninebark (try the chartreuse varieties in early spring arrangements), smoke bush, ornamental grass plumes and red or yellow twig dogwood.

For Shade Gardens

While most annual cut flowers want a lot of sun, there are plenty of shade lovers for the vase. Many of the shrubs we mentioned above will do just fine in morning sun. Hostas and ferns bring great foliage and texture. Astilbe has great flowers along with a number of different hydrangeas. Utilize bleeding hearts for flowers and foliage. A few others include columbine, Solomon’s seal, sea oats, and anemone.

General Notes

In general, if it looks good in the landscape it will look good in a vase. Mix and match shapes for best visual interest; disks, spikes, airy forms all show nicely. Get creative; consider fatsia leaves, variegated euonymus, and herbaceous hibiscus leaves. For plants whose blooms will be harvested, fertilize well and often at the appropriate times. Watch for water and pest stress; treat as needed.

Make clean cuts, with a clean utensil.  Make careful cuts that won’t affect the shape negatively, this is especially true on trees and shrubs; cut at branching if possible.  Keep arrangements out of direct sun, and away from heat sources for best preservation.

Most of all, have fun and share the joys of your cutting garden. Tiny bouquets make adorable teacher and hostess gifts, personalized bouquets from your very own garden are always an unexpected delight, and maybe most of all, collecting and creating these arrangements for your own home’s inhabitants and visitors is a welcome boost of natural wonder!

 

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]]> 13045 Captivated by Peonies https://thegoodearthgarden.com/captivated-by-peonies/ Wed, 15 Mar 2023 16:07:53 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=13032   Beautiful, showy and full of romance, the flowers from the Peony make it to both weddings, and simple bouquets for around the home.  Nostalgic, for many of us, the sight of Peonies remind of us of grandparents, or any loved ones who grew these year after year. That casual, simple elegance is what keeps... Read more »

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Beautiful, showy and full of romance, the flowers from the Peony make it to both weddings, and simple bouquets for around the home.  Nostalgic, for many of us, the sight of Peonies remind of us of grandparents, or any loved ones who grew these year after year. That casual, simple elegance is what keeps Peonies a favorite year after year.

History

Peonies have been around for a long time, dating back to China in the 6th and 7th centuries for medicinal properties.  It took a few hundred years for the cultivation to spread throughout China, and spread it did.  Meanwhile Peony lactiflora (most of today’s traditional Peonies) was introduced to Japan by the 10th century. Fast forward a bit, ok zoom into the 20th century and in the 1940’s successful breeding between two different kinds of peonies resulted in a new class of plants called Itoh Peonies.

An Itoh Peony is a cross between a tree Peony and a traditional one.  These hybrids are considered the best of both worlds and prized for the huge flowers and sturdy stems that don’t tend to flop over.

Here at the Good Earth you will find both the traditional and Itoh varieties in various colors, making a difficult job just choosing one!  However, please note that we usually only have Peonies available during spring months… and they sell out quickly.  For current inventory, visit this page.

Common Questions, Answered

Can I plant a peony in full sun? A. Yes, however depending on the weather, our hot afternoon summer sun can be hard on the leaves of the plant.  By planting them in ½ day sun, it will help the overall look of the plant in the summer months.

Should  I have all my Peonies planted together as I collect them? Can I make a hedge with them? A. Yes you can.  And when they would be in flower it would be amazing.  However, the leaves could look a bit ratty by midsummer here in Arkansas.  Tucking the plants in the landscape can make that look less obvious and the flowers can still be enjoyed in the spring.

Why is my Peony not flowering? A. There are many reasons but here is the most common.

–If you planted a bareroot plant from a bag, the root is young and can take several years to develop.

–Planted to too much shade. Needs at least ½ day sun.

–Too much nitrogen in the fertilizer.  That is the 1st number in the three number combination on the fertilizer bag.  A well balanced fertilizer combination such as 14-14-14, 10-10-10, or even bone meal is suitable.

–Planted to deep.  If the “eyes” of the root are planted too deep, they tend not to flower.  If you are planting bareroot, the eyes should be 1” deep in the ground.

–Damaged eyes.  Lets face it, it can be hard to see them emerging especially when those eyes haven’t poked through the mulch and can get stepped on easily even from a dog.

How much room do I need to grow Peonies? A. Herbaceous varieties usually grow to about 24 inches tall and 24-36 inches wide. Itoh varieties can are similar; 24-30 inches tall and wide.

 

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]]> 13032 How to Make a Kokedama https://thegoodearthgarden.com/how-to-make-a-kokedama/ Wed, 21 Dec 2022 23:04:59 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=12881 What is a kokedama anyway? It’s a form of Japanese art, that as a literal translation, means moss (koke) and ball (dama).  Like bonsai, it’s not the actual plant but how the plant is being grown that makes it a kokedama.  Our creative, artistic co-worker Angie decided to make some of these up, presenting the... Read more »

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What is a kokedama anyway?

It’s a form of Japanese art, that as a literal translation, means moss (koke) and ball (dama).  Like bonsai, it’s not the actual plant but how the plant is being grown that makes it a kokedama.  Our creative, artistic co-worker Angie decided to make some of these up, presenting the perfect opportunity to share the process with you!

 

Materials List

First, you need some basic gardening tools such as a trowel, pruners, as well as thick cotton string, twine or fishing line and scissors to cut it.  You also need a few bowls; one for mixing the soil in and one for soaking the sheet moss, which will cover the root ball. Oh and water to wet the sheet moss!

Other items you may not have already on hand include:

  • Sphagnum moss or peat moss (if long fiber, cut into small pieces)
  • Sheet moss
  • Cat litter – clay only kind (see below)
  • Good Earth brand Professional Potting Mix
  • A plant (see below)

A few quick notes on the above ingredients; look for cat litter that is made of just clay, no added ingredients.  Fortunately, this is generally the cheapest one in the store, often located on the bottom shelf and may just be available as the store brand only. Use it as it comes, don’t sift out the dust; you need that to help the soil mix ingredients stick together.

We carry long fiber sphagnum moss so that is what we used, just cut it into smaller pieces.  If you are able to find short fiber moss, you can use that instead.  Remove any sticks or large pieces of debris out of the moss or our potting soil.  And about our soil; if you don’t live near us, just make sure you use a premium, soil-less, peat moss based potting mix.  Ours has perlite and very fine pine bark in it as well.

 

 

Making the Mix

We are going to sneak this in here; before you start the planting mix, start soaking the outer moss in water. We used preserved sheet moss, in a nice dark green color.  Try to find large pieces, they will knit together easier and faster than a bunch of small pieces.  You can also use long fiber sphagnum moss; use as is, you will want the long strands if using for outer covering. sheet moss, not peices of moss, because that would be harder to put together.

Now, make the mix!  The recipe that worked well for Angie was two parts (two trowels worth) Good Earth brand Professional Potting Mix, one part long fiber sphagnum moss, cut down into small pieces, and one part cat litter.

 

 

Add Water

Add water a little at a time; you are going for a sticky mix, not muddy.  Once you can make a snowball out of it and it stays together, it’s ready.

Choosing a Plant

It may go without saying but we are going to say it anyway… choose one you like the form of (such as trailing, upright, sprawling, etc) and one that will work well in the space you want it to live in.  Easy care plants would be a good choice, especially for your first kokedama.  Our artist chose a pepperomia because it was beautiful and had an array of gorgeous leaf colors. Angie chose to work with a small plant, one in a 4″ pot, which fit her hand nicely.  A larger container plant would mean a large root ball and may be more of a challenge to form.  If you can make a stickier potting mix, a larger root ball would be easier to work with. This particular plant is fragile with leaves that can be easily broken, be mindful of that if you choose this plant. Other plants, like pothos, hoya, or airplane plant might be easier.  Regardless of the chosen plant, make sure it’s well watered and healthy.  As far as watering goes, hydrated plants will have more pliable roots; dry roots can break and become damaged in the loosening process.

Prepare Your Plant

Carefully remove the plant from its container, and gently remove loose potting soil from around the root ball and gently loosen the root ball itself.  Carefully shape remaining soil and roots into a ball.

 

 

Add Soil Mix to the Root Ball

There might be several ways to do this, but to provide a visual, Angie formed a hamburger patty shape and size out of the soil mix.  She then placed the prepared root ball onto the flattened mix, curved it around the plant roots, then continued to add soil mix around the roots until it was covered well. The finished size of the root ball will depend on the root mass at the beginning of the process. Shape the covered root ball into a sphere that can be set down, intact, without falling apart.  Get your string ready; don’t cut any but make sure it is untangled and ready to pull.

 

Cover with Moss and Wrap

Start with a good size piece of saturated sheet moss, piece together so there isn’t a lot of overlap from piece to piece and use smaller pieces to plug in between larger pieces. When moss is completely covering the soil, get string, leaving a long end free, maybe 12-18″ so you have enough to join with other end when finished wrapping.

Wind the string around the root ball, wabi sabi (imperfect and random) or in an organized pattern, whichever style you prefer.  Just make sure you don’t have any big open areas without string.

Once you get it all wrapped around, tie the ends together. After this, you can either set it in a little pretty dish, or saucer or plan to hang it.  To hang, tie three strings or finishing lines onto it, gather them at the top and tie them together, then hang.

Caring for Your Kokedama

As we talked about above, light is based on the plant and its specific needs. These can be easily hung near a window, just make sure the sun isn’t strong enough to burn the plant. Water by filling a bowl, then placing the kokedama in the water for a few hours, remove and let drain for a few hours before hanging back up or placing back in your saucer.  To fertilize, mix the appropriate water soluble fertilizer in with water and let the plant soak it up, as the plant hydrates.

Enjoy your artistry!

 

 

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]]> 12881 How to Plant a B&B Tree or Shrub https://thegoodearthgarden.com/how-to-plant-a-bb-tree-or-shrub/ Wed, 23 Mar 2022 20:54:11 +0000 https://thegoodearthgarden.com/?p=9413 Let’s start at the beginning; what is a B&B anyway?  When you shop for trees or shrubs, you might have an opportunity to choose between one in a container or a B&B.  B&B stands for ball and burlap; this is when a plant has been grown in the ground.  Once a field grown plant is... Read more »

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Let’s start at the beginning; what is a B&B anyway?  When you shop for trees or shrubs, you might have an opportunity to choose between one in a container or a B&B.  B&B stands for ball and burlap; this is when a plant has been grown in the ground.  Once a field grown plant is ready to sell, it is then dug up and the rootball is wrapped in burlap. For larger trees, sometimes this burlapped rootball is then placed in a metal basket to help support the rootball. Pretty easy to see where these get their name, right?

Balled and Burlap versus Container Plant

Container plants usually weigh less and can be more manageable to transport; the appeal of the B&B is usually value.  Typically, you get more plant for your dollar by purchasing a B&B. They are usually heavier, as they have been grown in heavier soils than a container grown plant. Ball and burlap plants can be intimidating for first timers.  This blog post is to help familiarize you with B&B plant materials, and the proper planting methods for growing success.

Handle with Care

Because B&B plant materials are often heavier than container plants, plan to have help unloading and getting it to the planting location.  Although these plants are just as tough as container grown trees and shrubs, it’s important to load, unload and place the rootball in the planting hole with care to avoid damaging the roots or breaking the rootball.  Breaking the rootball may cause a portion of the roots to break away from the upper portion of the tree or shrub.  Do not drop a B&B plant; set it down gently, whether into a vehicle or into the planting hole.

Preparing to Plant

Dig a hole twice as wide as the rootball and almost as deep as the rootball.  When planting in heavier soils, such as clay, that tends to hold water, it’s important to subtract one inch off the depth. Why is this? Roots need oxygen and heavy soils with poor drainage hold water near roots longer, which reduces oxygen to the roots.  If this happens for an extended time, root rot can occur.  A plant without healthy roots will decline.  Planting a bit high gives the plants’ surface roots more opportunities to take in oxygen from the air. The top of the rootball should be about one inch higher than the surrounding soil surface.

Another way to help plant roots get more oxygen is to add the right kind of organic matter to a heavy soil.  A general rule of thumb is to stick to a 70% native soil to 30% amendment ratio.  We suggest using our Organic Compost to amend heavy soils; it contains small particles of pine bark, which allows for air pockets in the soil.  This will add opportunities for more oxygen in the soil due to better drainage.

For sandy soils that drain too fast, we suggest adding organic matter that has smaller particles that will hold onto water; Cotton Burr Compost would be a good option. Stick with the 70/30 ratio on this as well.  Although your native soil may not be great, your goal is for your plant to root out into that soil.  If you completely replace the native soil just in the planting hole, the roots will most likely stay in that area to avoid the poorer native soil. Plan to plant about one inch high in these soils, as often times, the soil at the bottom of the planting hole will settle. You never want the top of the rootball to be lower than the surrounding soil.

To get a good feel for how well your soil drains, complete a drainage test. This is discussed in the Getting to Know Your Soil blog post linked below.

Don’t forget to add our Good Earth Jump Start at planting.  Here is a whole blog post on the benefits of using Jump Start, but the key item to remember is it helps the plant get established quicker by greatly increasing root volume, which can in turn, helps the plant absorb up to 1,000 times more nutrients and water!

How to Plant B&B Trees and Shrubs

Now that the planting hole is ready, the soil to go back around the rootball has been amended, and Jump Start has been added, it’s time to gently place the plant in the planting hole. Try to keep trunk or upper growth of the plant straight as you add the amended soil around the rootball… wait, how about that burlap and metal basket?  When do those get removed?  Leave them in place until you get the plant just how you want it. You will want those to still be present if you have to remove the plant and adjust the depth of the planting hole or adjustments are needed to straighten it during the planting process. It’s important to straighten the plant by adjusting the rootball, never push on the trunk or top growth of the plant to straighten; this can break the top growth of the plant away from the rootball. As you add soil, press it gently to remove large air pockets; roots need to be in contact with the soil to avoid drying out. Don’t press too hard, it can compact the soil.

Once most of the soil has been placed around the rootball and you have the plant the way you want it, it’s time to carefully cut the twine holding the burlap in place from around the top of the rootball and trunk of the tree or shrub. Leaving them in place will girdle the plant and cause it to decline as it outgrows the tight twine. Once the twine has been cut away from the top of the rootball, peel back both the twine and the burlap to the outer edges of the rootball top. Don’t attempt to remove the twine from the sides or bottom of the rootball; the roots will grow through them into the soil.  The same applies to the wire basket, although if the basket comes up over the top of the rootball, you can gently bend the wire back toward the bottom of the rootball, into the planting hole, to avoid them being visible at the soil surface.

The top of the rootball should be about one inch higher than the surrounding soil. This is true for both container and B&B trees, as well as other plant materials that require good drainage such as azaleas. Add a few inches of mulch to cover the rootball.  Avoid placing it against the trunk of the tree or shrub.

Caring for Your New B&B Tree or Shrub

Water the newly planted tree or shrub well and continue as needed through the life of the plant.  Each planting location is different, with different soil, each plant has different water needs, and water needs differ from season to season. For these reasons, we cannot definitively give recommendations on how much to water a plant. In general, extra handwatering is needed, even if you have a working sprinkler system that is adequate for your established landscape.  More water is needed during the summer months. When planting in summer months, we suggest filling the planting hole halfway (or even entirely) before planting.  This will both thoroughly wet the ground around the rootball, decreasing transplant shock, and give you an even better idea of how fast or slow your soil drains.

To understand what is happening in the root system of the plant, we suggest Moisture Meters.  These are an inexpensive tool for gauging how much moisture is in the soil. We have a link to further details regarding Moisture Meters below.

Watch your plant for sights of stress such as yellowing leaves, wilted appearance and leaf drop.  Take a close look at your plant at least once a week to check for disease or insect issues that may not be apparent from a distance.  If any signs of distress are visible, reach out to us by bringing a sample or images of the issue to The Good Earth or emailing us images and details.

The most common culprit of plant decline soon after planting is water; either too much or too little.  The signs of both are similar.  It’s important to know what kind of soil you have, properly amend before planting, and monitor and adjust watering based on weather, and the needs of your particular plant.

Getting To Know Your Soil

Not all soil is treated equally. In this guide you’ll learn properties to look for in your soil and how to adjust conditions to make them the most suitable for your plants.

Learn More

Take The Guesswork Out Of Watering With A Moisture Meter

Watering can be the cause of why your plant isn’t succeeding. Here you’ll learn what a moisture meter is, how to read it, and ways to adjust your watering for best results.

Learn More

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