This article covers the topic of controlling Crapemyrtle (also sometimes spelled Crepe Myrtle, Crepemyrtle or Crape Myrtle) bark scale.

There is a new, serious threat to one of our favorite trees.  It’s even more serious than the unsightly and oft mentioned crape murder.  As a reminder, crepe murder is the extreme pruning of crepe myrtles that results in weakened and deformed trees.  If you aren’t sure how to properly prune your crepe myrtles, check out this post.  Okay, jumping off that soapbox, let’s talk about the Crapemyrtle Bark Scale.  It has been around the Southeast for years but this insect showed its destructive little head in Arkansas a few years.  Are we gonna just take this or are we gonna fight?  We say fight!

*Pictures of Crapemyrtle Bark Scale were provided by the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (let’s call it CMBS) is a small insect that appears as a white or gray felt-like encrustation.  CMBS might be found anywhere on crepe myrtles bark, and often appears near pruning sites and branch crotches of more mature wood.  Often times, the first sign of CMBS is the black sooty mold on the tree bark.  This may be misleading since a more common and easy to control pest, aphids, can also cause sooty mold.  Closely examine the affected areas to properly identify the pest.  Bring us samples or images if you aren’t sure.

This tree is heavily infested with CMBS; notice the gray and white insects all over and the black sooty mold covering the entire surface of the tree bark.

Life Cycle of CMBS

As with most insects, there are several life stages and the appearance of CMBS changes with the stages.  CMBS might be able to overwinter in the adult female and egg life stages, and crawlers and later stage nymphs have been observed overwintering under the loose bark and in cracks and crevices of crapemyrtles in our area.  In one year, there could be at least two generations of CMBS.  This can be a difficult pest to control and it may take multiple years of treatment.

So, how do we fight this pest?  Keep reading!

Again, black sooty mold with gray and white specs being CMBS.

Treatment

The best window for control is late April or early May as the crepe myrtles begin to really flush.  Apply a soil drench of an imidacloprid product such as Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench during this period.  If CMBS are in your area, it would be a good idea to apply this as a preventative measure during this window.  This imidacloprid product is a soil drench that is watered into the root zone, specifically in the drip line of the tree (above graphic) where the feeder roots are located.

Every month past May, the effectiveness of control decreases since the plants are growing less and less.  During times when crepe myrtle trees are not in leaf, apply sprays of dormant oil (containing paraffin oil), taking care to apply under loose bark and in cracks and crevices.

Here is the list of what you can do and when it needs to be done:

Anytime

Mix dishwashing soap with water and scrub the branches with a soft bristle brush. This is not necessary but it will remove the unsightly black sooty mold.  We have heard of people using pressure washers to remove sooty mold; we do not suggest this course of action, as it can cause  damage to the tree.

Late Fall-Early Spring

Once the tree defoliates or before it puts on new foliage, spray with a dormant oil.  This can be done multiple times.  Apply thoroughly, making sure to get the product under crevices in the bark and between branches.

Late April-Early May

Apply Ferti-Lome Tree & Shrub Systemic Insect Drench.  Mix with water as directed, and apply in a band along the drip line of the plant, as a soil drench.  To measure the crepe myrtle, add up the circumference of all trunks at chest high (about 4.5 feet off the ground).  For example, if you have 5 trunks and the trunk circumference is 4 inches each, then you have a total of 20 inches in circumference.

The drench will need to be applied to the drip line of the plant.  The drip line of the plant is considered to be the outer circumference of the plant branches and inward toward the trunk several feet (see diagram above).  In order to apply this 20 ounces properly, it will need to be mixed into several gallons of water so that there is enough volume to be applied in a 3-4 foot band from the drip line in towards the tree trunk all the way around the plant.

Late Summer-Early Fall

Treat with Hi-Yield Systemic Insect Spray using a hose end sprayer.  This should be done after blooming has ended for the season.  Be sure to coat the trunk thoroughly.  As with all chemicals, use as directed on the label only. If the tree is located near other blooming plants, skip this step.  It’s not a crucial step in the control process and it’s not worth potentially damaging any beneficial insects.

For more information, visit the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service fact sheet.  We thank them for providing the images!  The Good Earth Garden Center has what you need to save your crepe myrtles….come see us!

The post Crapemyrtle Treatments appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

This article covers the topic of pruning Crapemyrtles (also spelled Crepemyrtle, Crepe Myrtle or Crape Myrtle). Quick note; this is a great time to inspect your crepes for a serious pest called Crapemyrtle Bark Scale (CMBS).  Here is our complete blog post on this pest, including how to identify and treat it.

When to Prune?

If you do choose to prune your crepe myrtles, pruning should take place in mid-February to avoid winter injury. Pruning should be done only to shape the tree; not to severely control plant height.

Pruning is also not necessary for blooming. The seed heads from last year can remain on the plant all year, and you will still get good blooming in the current year.

What is the correct method?

First of all, pruning crapemyrtles is optional; if the plant is in the correct place and can grow to its mature size, let it grow!

If you need to prune your crapemyrtle tree or shrub, thinning branches to limb up the crapemyrtle is the correct method. Remove lower limbs that are thinner than a pencil diameter.

While the plant is young, it is acceptable to prune the top of the branches. When it gets older, this is unacceptable.

As a bonus, pruning correctly is much less work than incorrectly pruning!

What is the incorrect method?

This is a well debated issue and one that plays out differently all over town.  Some of us even call the severe pruning of crapemyrtles ‘crape murder’!  Crape murder weakens the plant making it more susceptible to disease and insect infestations.

If the plant is improperly placed and gets too large for its current position, consider transplanting it before a severe pruning. Crapemyrtles transplant very well!

A severe pruning will result in a ‘knee’ and will result in many smaller weak limbs shooting out from the knee.  If cut in the same place each year, the plants develop a knob on the end which is particularly unsightly in the winter.  Pruning lower limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter is completely acceptable since this will not leave any scars.

There is one exception to this rule; harsh pruning of dwarf crapemyrtles is acceptable and will not result in ‘knees’.

If you are going to prune, prune correctly!

So, in conclusion, crapemyrtles trees are usually grown as small trees with 3 to 5 trunks that are kept free of small limbs up on the lower part of the tree (up to 2/3 of the height). Thinning of limbs every few years will encourage new growth and blooming but remember to prune only limbs that are less than a pencils’ width in diameter.  While the trees are young, the tips of the small limbs can be pruned off (again only those a pencil width diameter or less).  As the tree grows, it become difficult and even dangerous to prune the top and it’s not necessary anyway.  Here are a few images of correct and incorrect pruning.

And if you are in the market for a crepe myrtle, remember that they come in all sizes and bloom colors. Come see us and we will help you find the one that works best in your space so you can avoid crape murder!

Bad crapemyrtle pruning:

Good crapemyrtle pruning:

This is the correct way to prune a crapemyrtle!  Notice that the horticulturist is taking off only low limbs that are small in diameter, while leaving the large trunks in place.

Here are some images of tree crapemyrtles after both correct and incorrect pruning:

Growth after incorrect crapemyrtle pruning:

Growth after correct crapemyrtle pruning.  Isn’t that a beautiful tree?!

The post How to Prune Crapemyrtles Correctly appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

So…planting a plant seems easy…just dig a hole and place the plant, right?!  Well, there is a little more to it than that!  Knowing the correct way to plant a plant is the first step to installing a successful landscape!

Start by digging a hole that is twice the width and as deep as the plant’s container.  Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and score the sides of the planting hole if they are slick.  These steps will make it easier for plant roots to grow into the native soil.

Proper soil drainage is key; this is how long it takes water to move through your soil. Heavy soils that contain clay drain more slowly and will benefit from having Organic Compost mixed in. Sandy soils that drain too fast will benefit from having a heavier compost such as Cotton Burr Compost mixed in.  Mix these soil amendments into the removed native soil. A good rule of thumb is to keep a ratio of 70% native soil and 30% part amendments.  For more details information on how to perform a drainage test, follow the link below, called, Getting to Know Your Soil.

Add Good Earth brand Jump Start to the planting hole or amended soil.  Jump Start contains mycorrhizea, which enables the roots to take up about 1,000 times more nutrients and water than they regularly could.  Be sure to place this in the root zone of the plant so it is accessible to the roots. For more information on the benefits of using our Good Earth Jump Start, check out this post.

Gently remove the plant from the container.  Avoid disturbing the roots too much, however, if the roots are bound and circling tightly , loosen them a bit. This will encourage them to grow outward, instead of continuing to grow in that same root-bound, circling direction. The roots shown in video above do not need to be cut or loosened, as they are not circling and severely pot bound.  If you have questions on this topic, email us or give us a call! This is recommended only for pot bound trees and shrubs with visibly circling roots, and is usually not necessary in bedding plants or herbaceous material such as perennials.

Place the plant in the hole and plant deep enough that the top of the root ball is about one inch above the surrounding soil. Then, back fill by adding the amended soil around the root ball.  As you add soil, press the soil down to collapse any large air pockets in the soil. Avoid pressing to hard as this can compact the soil. Once you have filled the area around the plant, make a slight well around the root area on top of the soil.  This will help collect water and direct it to the plant roots. Water the plant well, add 2 to 3 inches of mulch to help the soil retain moisture and then water again.

Newly planted materials will require more water initially so check the plant at least often after planting and within the first year, while it’s getting established.  We recommend using a moisture meter so you don’t over or under water your plants. We have link to more information about Moisture Meters below.

So that is how to plant a plant…pretty easy, right!  Thanks for watching and remember, great gardens start with Good Earth!

The post How to Plant a Plant appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

This video is all about treating with preemerge but before we get to that, Gregg talks a bit about a serious pest, crapemyrtle bark scale.

Crapemyrtle Bark Scale

It’s a serious pest on one of our favorite landscape trees and it’s not going away.  In fact, we had more customers than ever come in to talk with us about this issue in 2021.  For details on how to identify and treat this pest, please visit our complete blog post.

If you skipped going to that post and you have crapemyrtles, we suggest you go inspect them for any odd looking spots on the bark and make sure that your tree’s bark is the color it should be and not black.  If you see any signs of an issue, visit the post or come see us with pictures and we will help you get started on a treatment plan.

As with anything, it’s key to treat properly… use the right chemical control at the right time.  Not treating leads to the spreading of this pest.  And like with an antibiotic, you need to go the distance; it’s not a one and done thing.  There are steps that need to be following for a few growing seasons to get the scale under control.

Treating with Pre Emerge

What is pre emerge?  This is a chemical, usually in granular form, that is applied to lawn and landscape beds to prevent weeds. It prevents weeds by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that is several inches in depth.  This barrier keeps any weed seeds that are in that soil area from germinating.

Pre emerge does not take care of perennial weeds such as onion and clover.  Please visit our post on spreader sticker and weed control for information on these hard to kill weeds.

Pre emerge also won’t kill annual weeds that are established; a post emerge product will have to applied to control those.

When to Treat with Pre Emerge

Because weed seeds germinate at all different temperatures, this chemical barrier layer needs to stay present year round.  Apply pre emerge every 60 to 90 days in both lawn and landscape bed areas to control new weed outbreaks.

So, if you haven’t applied pre emerge in the past 60 to 90 days, it’s time to apply it!  When grass is dormant or going dormant, apply a pre emerge without fertilizer in it.  We recommend Hi Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper which can be applied in both lawn and landscape beds.  During the growing season, apply a pre emerge containing fertilizer, such as Good Earth brand Grass and Weed Preventer.

Wondering how to apply pre emerge?  Check out our post on using a spreader.

Please note that these tips are for zoysiagrass and bermuda grass; for St. Augustine, please visit us. Also, if you are planning on starting any type of seed, whether it’s overseeding your lawn or seeding annuals in your landscape beds, don’t use pre emerge in those areas.  It does not differentiate between plant seed types!

The post Treating with Preemerge appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

The post The Proper Care of Houseplants appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

Correct plant methods relate closely to soil type, which is why it’s so important to get to know your soil before planting. There is a lot of information out there, and not all of it is accurate or applicable to all soil types. Here in central Arkansas, most soil have at least some clay in them and in many areas, the soil is mostly clay.

Clay Soils

What happens when you plant in clay?  The clay binds together and can form a kind of an artificial in-ground pot.  And most importantly, it’s an artificial in-ground pot that lacks good drainage, which can be very detrimental to plant roots.  If there isn’t a place for excess water to go, it stays in the soil near plant roots, filling air pockets with water as opposed to oxygen.  If the water stays near the plant roots for too long, and plant roots have no access to oxygen, the plant essentially drowns.

What is Good Drainage?

Sometimes the symptoms of too much water or lack of drainage can include wilting or yellowing of top growth.  These symptoms can be interpreted as a lack of water. This can result in a homeowner applying even more water to an already drowning plant.  It’s one of the many reasons that performing a drainage test and getting to know your soil before planting is so important.

What is a Drainage Test?

A drainage test includes digging a hole near where you will be plant, at least a foot deep and a foot wide.  Fill the planting hole with water. Take note of how long the water took to drain out into the surrounding soil.  If it takes more than a few minutes, the drainage isn’t good and adjustments will have to be made for better plant health.

How to Address Poor Drainage

There are several ways to address drainage. If you are starting over or building a new bed, either in your landscape or as a garden bed, we recommend building the bed with our blended soil.  This consists of compost, horse manure, leaves and sandy loam.  To amend existing soil, add one-third amendment, such as compost, to the existing soil. Try to keep an approximate ratio of 70% native soil to 30% amendment.

In both cases, address the top sixteen inches of soil; this is where most of the roots for shrubs to their work.

If your yard is compacted clay, dig down about two feet at planting and add some gravel at the bottom of the planting hole.  By doing this, you are creating a kind of french drain. The gravel gives the water a place to rest away from the plant roots.

Additional Planting Tips

Another planting tip is not to disturb the roots too much.  You don’t have to cut plant roots to get them growing, however, if the roots are bound and circling, loosen them a bit. This will encourage them to grow outward, instead of continuing to grow in that same root-bound, circling direction. The roots shown in the image just above are severely pot bound and will benefit from being cut or loosened. The roots shown in the How to Plant a Plant video linked below do not need to be cut or loosened, as they are not circling and severely pot bound.  If you have questions on this topic, email us or give us a call!

When you dig deeper than the root ball height, some settling will occur.  In this case, we suggest planting the root ball a little high, about an inch. After some settling occurs, the top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding soil. You don’t want to plant too high and create a volcano.  You also don’t want to plant too low and have excess water settling on the plant crown, which is where the plant top growth meets the soil.

The post Getting to Know Your Soil appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

It’s a great time to start transforming your warm season annual combo pots into fall combo pots!  Whether you are re-working existing containers or starting fresh, here are some tips from the professionals at The Good Earth:

Fall combo pots provide bright color all fall.  Consider plant options such as crotons, ornamental peppers, ornamental cabbage/ kale, rudbeckia, celosia and pansies.  And if you aren’t familiar with Cool Wave pansies, check them out.  Cool Waves trail over container edges for cascading color all winter long!

Keep your crotons!  With their colorful orange, red and yellow leaves, crotons fairly shout fall.  But they aren’t winter hardy so often times, people let them freeze.  There is another way!  Pop them out of your combo pots, pot them up and bring them inside when temperatures start dipping under 50 degrees at night.  They grow well as houseplants in areas with bright, indirect light.

Use evergreen plant shrubs or perennials, pansies, violas, panolas or Cool Wave pansies to fill in where crotons and other non-winter hardy plant materials have died back to give you color all winter long.

Use drainage rock, Good Earth brand Professional Growing Mix, and Good Earth brand Jump Start at planting.  For containers with flowering annuals, use Ferti-Lome Premium Bedding Plant Food.

Don’t forget to water your pots during the winter; plants do not like to freeze dry.  The is is especially important to remember for pots placed in covered areas.

Not sure where to start?  Bring us pictures and measurements of your pots and we will help you.  Also, don’t forget, our Potting Pavilion is open.  Bring your pots and plant them up here!  For more information about the Potting Pavilion, click here.

The post Fall Combination Planters appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

Leaves prematurely dropping leaves, leaves turning brown or showing fall color early is often a result of root stress.  Often times, we learn from the homeowners that the plants are new.  This premature leaf drop isn’t unusual for newly planted materials.  This is because sometimes the root system isn’t well enough developed to support the top growth of the plant, without stressing a bit during extremely hot, dry or even overly wet weather conditions.

Check the soil with a Moisture Meter to see what is happening near the root zone of the plant.  If it’s very dry, adjust your sprinkler or watering schedule and duration accordingly.

When the weather starts to cool, begin reducing water applications by 10% every 2 weeks, until it has been reduced by 40%.  We recommend this because plants need less water during the cooler weather season, and over-watering can become an issue.  Damage from over-watering won’t show up until the following year.

If possible, cover and protect RPZ valve and leave on all winter or plan to hand water newly planted materials during extremely cold temperatures.  Freezing dry can cause significant plant damage as well.

The post Why are my leaves already falling? appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

The post Evergreen Privacy appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.

Gregg and Jeff talk about poinsettias in this video and also a bit about Christmas cactus (which is actually Thanksgiving cactus).  For more in depth information about Christmas cactus plants, visit this post.

History

Here are a few interesting tidbits about poinsettias; they are named after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first United States Minister to Mexico.  He introduced the plant to the US in 1825.  Poinsettias are widely considered and most popularly sold as a Christmas plant.  As legends tell it, in 16th century Mexico, a poor girl named Pepita was unable to provide a gift in celebration of Jesus’ birthday.  An angel inspired her to gather these “weeds” from the roadside; which then sprouted crimson blossoms. From the 17th-century on, poinsettias were used by the Franciscan friars in Christmas celebrations.

Interesting Fact about Poinsettias

A little botanical side note; the bright poinsettia petals actually colorful leaf bracts surrounding the actual poinsettia flower, which is located at the center of the bracts and may be green or yellow.  We suggest not correcting people with this fact when they are waxing poetic about the beauty of poinsettia flowers.  From this author’s experience, all that will get you is a blank look or maybe even an eye roll.  Wait… are your eyes rolling right now?!

Now, these hard to resist plants are pretty easy to take care but there are a few helpful tips.  And as is true with most plants, correct watering is key!

How to Care for Poinsettias

Place poinsettias in bright, indirect light, and water as needed throughout the season. Water when the soil surface is dry and do not allow the plant to sit in water. If the plant is in a sleeve, remove the sleeve, water, let it drain then replace the sleeve. Or cut the sleeve to allow water drainage and place a saucer under the plant; dump the extra water from the saucer. Water the soil; avoiding the foliage. Move poinsettias carefully; they break easily. Avoid placing the plant near hot or cold drafts; 65 to 70 degrees is preferred. Enjoy them for the season and then toss out with the tree!

Are Poinsettias Poisonous?

One last item to cover; are poinsettias poisonous or not?  The white sap that appears when stems are broken may irritate your skin, and cause some itching.  This is true with other plants in the Euphorbiaceae family too, including Variegated Tapioca and the much loved Ascot Rainbow Euphorbia.  Avoid ingesting these plants.  You would have to eat large quantities for them to be dangerously poisonous but they don’t taste great so we advise against ingesting them altogether!

Fresh Arkansas Grown Poinsettias at Good Earth

We support local growers; all of our poinsettias are Arkansas grown.  We take good care of them; our poinsettias are either in the hothouse or in our gift shop during their time with us.  Buying healthy, happy plants is the first step to success so pick yours up here today!

The post Poinsettias appeared first on The Good Earth Garden Center.